Goldi-Locker and the three Diamonds. 1999 Montero - Adventure Engineered.

[IncorpoRatedX]

Vehicle: 1999 Montero with locker.

Beginning specifications:
Exterior: Sudan Beige
Interior: Tan leather
Engine: 3.5 liter single over head cam V6 "6G74" - Iron block, aluminum heads, timing belt driven
Transmission: Aisin AW03-72LE - overdrive auto transmission
Transfercase: Superselect, 2wd, synchronized shift-on-the-fly awd, Standard 4wd high and low.
Axles: High pinion 8" up front, 9.5" rear with factory air locker, 4.27 differentials


Proposed specifications:
Exterior: Adventure Driven Design Livery - Grey and Blue topography over battleship grey, white top, black lower trim.
Interior: Tan canvas
Engine: 3.8 liter single over head cam V6 "6G75" - Iron block, aluminum heads, timing belt driven, eaton supercharger
Transmission: Aisin AW03-72LE - overdrive auto transmission - shift kit - larger cooler
Transfercase: Superselect, 2wd, synchronized shift-on-the-fly awd, standard 4wd high and Marks4WD 2.7:1 low.
Axles: High pinion 8" up front, 9.5" rear with factory air locker, 4.90 differentials


Day one:

Current: (will change with progress)



Goldi-locker was purchased in LA quite a while back to fill the montero void in our life, after we started ADD, it became a 'stock comparison truck' ... since it wasnt modded we used it for a baseline comparison. I tolerated riding on KYB's and made due with 31" tires, daily drove the truck and showed up to any wheeling trip I could. Showing just how much you can do with a low budget truck.

After 2 years of moderate to heavy use for a stock truck, it has held up great. The vehicle will be an ADD brand ambassador for 2018 so it's time to start working it over. Friday of last week I installed a new denso alternator, new trans lines, added new fluid and put in a fresh-from-the-dealer coolant reservoir. Then stabbed four new Bilstein 5100 long travel shocks and stainless skidplates, total shock install took about two hours, 30 minutes each, I didn't take any of my wheels off and only used a floor jack and some hand tools.

The real trick to installing these long travel shocks is a good long wood working clamp, safety protection of course, and some strong string. I used the wood clamp to compress the shocks, tied them off with the string and popped them in. The trick to removing the stock shocks was to tie them off with the vehicle at rest, remove the top nuts from the fron and rear, then jack the truck up and undo the bolts, they remain compressed and slip out nice and easy. All in all, it went well.

 
Saturday I went out with the local crew to some rocky trails, the 5100's ride very plush, they soak up terrain and make washboard roads feel like mall parking lots. I was so impressed with the quality of the ride, i decided I wouldnt air down my tires so I could see just how nice the Bilstein 5100 is compared to a KYB... I did the same trail a year prior with the same truck on KYB's and it beat the shit out of me, I even aired down on that run.

The whole day went smooth, the ride was good even with the tires at full pressure, but the trail kept getting rockier and rockier, at one point as we casually strolled through a rubble road I said to myself, or maybe to my co-pilot CJ "I think I should air down" - but we were almost to the secret lake, so whatever, I'll be fine, the exit is right after the lake anyho-PSSSSH 'oh shit, is that us? That's us!" PSSSSH rear tire encountered a very sharp knife edged rock with the sidewall. My tires are Yokohama Geolander A/T-S in 31x10.50R15 on some 15x8 turbine wheels, perfect for a stock truck, especially a gen 2.5 with 4.27 gears... After swapping on the spare I caught back up with the gang and it was decided, Ive got the front 4.90's, the rears will be here soon, it's time for 33's...

[MrGalantguy]

Josh..got the part# of that Denso?

The "newish" alternator the PO got installed or Nissan dealer is showing its ugly head occasionally with electrical load especially when the a/c is on....I am pretty sure its because its crappy aftermarket autozone garbage. Looking to be proactive and find either a used OEM alternator and getting it rebuilt or buying a new Denso one like you did.

Thank you and great update!!

[IncorpoRatedX]

I don’t have the PN, but it was listed on rock auto (where I got this one)

[IncorpoRatedX]

I still had the box, Part number for the Denso unit is: 210-4171

[IncorpoRatedX]

Goldi got 33's...


After the last trail run, a rock put about an 8" cut in the sidewall of my tire, so i went to order a replacement... Instead we got 33's. Geolanders have a new tread design, seems to be quieter on-road and just as capable offroad with more side lug action now. I'm pleased with them.

[IncorpoRatedX]

Today I'll be test fitting the new Adventure Driven Design stainless transmission skid plate on the 99.

While im down there I'll be removing one of my transmission lines for repair.

If you have a gen 2, check the head shield above the exhaust y-pipe merge, mine was bent and touching the trans line, vibration has caused it to rub a pin-hole and caused a minor transmission leak.

Here's a photo I really like that Johnny took on our last trip out. The 99 is looking low-slung with the 33's... time to lift it.

[concealer404]

Hrm... i wonder if that's what i'm smelling.  Can't really tell if it's burning trans fluid or coolant.  It's losing both.  Smokes from something hitting exhaust after sitting for a few days though.

Weird smell, not something i've experienced in my other vehicles before.

[IncorpoRatedX]

Turns out it rubbed the paint off. the leak was coming from the 90* fitting coming out of the side of the trans. It has a lock-nut and o-ring type washer. All the slammin an bouncin might have worked it a little loose, but it was loose. Didnt figure that out until I had pulled and pressure tested the line, but I guess better safe than sorry. Trans skid fits like a dream.

[IncorpoRatedX]

Updates, I installed OME lift springs on the 99...

Some information regarding our suspension kits;

5100's are the softest shocks we sell, they're designed to primarily be used with our upgraded springs, they also work with the OME and they will work with stock springs, but going cheap comes at some cost.

The difference in the three springs you could be running are as follows:
Stock - follows stock progressive rate, not much to say here
OME - firmer spring for handling more weight, same length as the stock gen 2 spring, but beefier, higher progressive rate.
ADD - firmer, even more progressive and longer to handle the off-road stretch.

Due to this info, we (i say we, but these are my words) rate them as such:

Stock - budget builders, you'll have to deal with more cycling of your suspension, you might notice the rear 'bobs' after bumps like a bobber on the pond, or a waterbed after someone plops down on it (you guys remember water beds?) the factory springs and torsion bars are so soft with such a low progressive rate that when combined with our shocks; you get some float. Especially if you try to load your truck down... if you dont like it, the solution to make the most out of the shocks is to upgrade the springs and torsion bars, otherwise, the bobbing is a small price to pay for how well the shocks work off road.

I personally ran this set up until recently and was completely happy with it. I'm state certified in suspension and steering systems, on some minor level, I've got some formal education on the topic, nothing about the way my ride handled surprised me, but it could surprise you, if you're not in the know.

Upgrading the springs without upgrading torsion bars will also create an uneven ride, by increasing the load carrying ability of the rear and increasing the progressive rate of the rear, without complimenting it in the front end, or loading down your front end with a big bumper while leaving the back end empty while running stock parts can also create a fight between the front and rear suspension, this can keep things cycling for longer than you want.

The above info pertains to stock torsions and springs, not uprated ones that are engineered to handle the extra weight of a bumper and winch.

Long story short; it's suggested that if you're going to upgrade your system, do the whole thing for optimal results, or do it how you want and live with the minor nuances of a lower dollar system.


OME - Overlander, the bilstein shocks pair nice with these, the firmer spring stops the bobbing and cycling, upgraded torsion bars will really even the ride out, but once you've upgraded springs, the cycling pretty much ends, as long as you're not running a serious front bumper. Loading down the rear wont change how the truck rides and you can attach a trailer without sag (stock springs will drop the ass)

ADD - Rock crawler, you're running these for max flex, chances are you're also running our panhard bar and torsion bars at this point. Cycling of the suspension is eliminated and there's no worry of unseated springs at full articulation. The front will handle a bumper and winch, the rear will handle a trailer or a ton of gear... Get an extended brake line if you're running mid or long travel shocks because at that point you've got the coil and shock length to really droop that bitch out and rip that line off, if you were to jump the truck, that is...

I hope this helps to reveal some of the mystery regarding suspension upgrades.

These photos are prior to the lift install, i'll take more in the coming weeks, I've been checking measurements to ensure the springs are fully settled prior to posting photos:

[reversecaoboy]

Thank you for the tips on the suspension! It was a concern of mine and I was going to email about running the 5100's on stock springs. Guess I will be getting OME springs and torsion bars afterall.

[Se7en62]

Nice thread, Josh! Teh Goldi-locker is so purdy!

[IncorpoRatedX]

Thanks guys.


The Gen 2.5 Montero - the ultimate USDM Montero chassis in my opinion. Humble, simple starts for mitsu in the 80's, the gen 1, no diesel option, but it did a good job with the tractor engine and minivan motor, then the gen 2 they snuck in the locker and quad cam engine, they were on the right track... The big-three lobbyists are the easiest to blame for turning it into an overweight and underpowered safety blob for soccer-moms nationwide. Had I sat down with mitsu engineers back in the day, I'd say do it like this:

4.90 gears, 3.8 liter engine, supercharger.

[MrGalantguy]

Thanks guys.


The Gen 2.5 Montero - the ultimate USDM Montero chassis in my opinion. Humble, simple starts for mitsu in the 80's, the gen 1, no diesel option, but it did a good job with the tractor engine and minivan motor, then the gen 2 they snuck in the locker and quad cam engine, they were on the right track... The big-three lobbyists are the easiest to blame for turning it into an overweight and underpowered safety blob for soccer-moms nationwide. Had I sat down with mitsu engineers back in the day, I'd say do it like this:

4.90 gears, 3.8 liter engine, supercharger.

[IncorpoRatedX]

I recently added a little flair. I'm not keen on the colors, the contrast of gold against copper brings the orange out in the copper and im not a big fan of it. I'd like to do this in sticker form, with thinner silver and blue lines like the company logo. but this is a proof of concept and my first article attempt, everything can be revised!

I do absolutely love the hood vents though, i can watch heat pumping out of them in traffic, but even more I love how they look, like an early EVO, rally bred. They transform the truck from looking docile and lumbering to agile and AGGRESSIVE (that's for Eric)

[PA_JERO]

I debate about the hood vents all the time. Never know how much they help. I dig the look though dude, keep it up.