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Messages - engiekev

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1
Gen 1 Montero / 2.6L G54b Turbo Swap Tech
« on: May 23, 2018, 06:17:58 AM »
Starting this thread as a resource for G54B turbocharger installation onto a stock 2.6L Gen 1, focusing on directly swapping over turbo TBI G54B parts for a "low boost" build.  A high boost forged bottom end, port injection manifold, etc. would be the ticket, but this is a budget build list.

Please post any info, tips, or issues you ran into the way during a turbo install. Will update this first post as info comes in!

Tech Info

G54B Differences

Montero 2.6L
CR 8.8:1

Starion 2.6L G54b
CR 7.0:1
Bottom-End rods/pistons
Oil Squirters
Forged Crankshaft

Parts List


Required
Turbocharger
Turbo oil supply line
Turbo oil drain line
Turbo outlet pipe
Downpipe
Exhaust Manifold
Intake Manifold
Throttle Body
Intake pipe
Injectors
MAF
ECU
Wiring harness


Optional

Intercooler
Intercooler Piping
Magna Intake Manifold


Links

4x4 Wire Tech
http://www.4x4wire.com/mitsubishi/tech/turbo_monty/


2
Gen 2 Montero / Re: Gen 2 Engine Swaps - Knowledge Dump
« on: September 18, 2017, 05:40:51 AM »
Is the 6G75 MIVEC available in any US sold car? I'll update the list

I've got the 3.8l 6g75 MIVEC in my 1990 Mighty Max. I don't think your options get any better than that. Everything bolt up just fine. One side of the block lacks a few motor mount bosses but there are ways around that.

Wiring harness isn't that bad either. I opted to use the existing one with my car and just ran a few extra lines for other circuits like knock, temp, o2, etc. I just made a conversion harness that clipped into my existing one. The real key is using the correct ecu. 98-99 montero and sport guys are in luck. You are perfectly poised to do virtually any 74 or 75 swap.

3
Gen 2 Montero / Gen 2 Engine Swaps - Knowledge Dump
« on: September 12, 2017, 05:13:50 AM »
In trying to determine all the various engine swap possibilites for a Gen 2, I didn't find a single thread that compiled all the info for all the various swaps possible (unless I missed it!) Making this thread for a knowledge dump of resources and experiences on engine swaps into Gen 2 vehicles. 

General Engine Info

Montero Engines

3.0L 6G72 SOHC 12V 1991-1995
151 HP
174 ft-lbs
Pros:
-Cheap?
-OBDI
Cons:
-Least powerful engine offered in gen 2s
-6G72 block/heads/parts not interchangeable with 6G74


3.0L 6G72 SOHC 24V 1996-2000
177 HP
188 ft-lbs
Pros:
-24V improves power over 12V 3.0L
Cons:
-6G72 block/heads/parts not interchangeable with 6G74
-OBDII, more diagnostic sensors

3.5L 6G74 DOHC 95-96
213 HP
228 ft-lbs
Pros:
-Top-end power, and power potential
-DOHC cool factor  8)
-Parts interchangeability with 3000GT/Stealth engines (turbos!!)
Cons:
-Complexity, reliability, cost vs. SOHC
-Powerband for offroading (higher in RPM range than SOHC)
-OBDII with a multitude of diagnostic sensors

3.5L 6G74 SOHC 96+
200 HP
228 ft-lbs
Pros:
-Most desirable for 3.0L vehicles
-Simple and reliable
-Many applications for engine parts compatibility
-6G75 crank fits in block for stroker engine (would need new pistons?)
Cons:
-Less HP and top end than the DOHC 6g74 variant (and less cool factor!)

3.5L 6G74 2001-2003
200 HP
235 ft-lbs
Pros:
-Slightly more torque than Gen 2 3.5L SOHC
Cons:
-Wiring complexity

3.8L 6G75 2003-2006
215 HP
248 ft-lbs
Pros:
-Most powerful engine offered in Monteros
-6G75 crank fits into 6G74 block
Cons:
-ECU and TCU integration (? confirm) may necessitate swapping engine and transmission together, along with wiring harness for both systems. 
-Cluster from Gen 2 would need modification to work with CAN bus system, aftermarket tach/speedometer may be easier, or CAN bus display
Resources:
https://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=40816
https://www.rpw.com.au/6g75-engine-conversions-now-available-5-september-2011/
http://forum.expeditionportal.com/threads/149274-Gen-2-5-3-8-Swap

Non-Montero Engines

3.5L 6G74 SOHC 96+ Montero Sport
200 HP
228 ft-lbs
Pros:
-Easy to find!
Cons:
-Some wiring harness differences possible?

3.8L 6G75 MIVEC 2006-2012 Eclipse/Galant
263-265 HP
260 ft-lbs
Pros:
-Highest HP 6GXX offered in US
Cons:
-Possible conflicts with engine accessories going from a transverse mount to longitudinal
-Likely uses CAN messaging for engine and transmission signals
Resources:
http://4x4wire.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/1038626.html

JDM Engines:


6G74 DOHC MIVEC 3.5L (Pajero Evo)
276 HP
256 ft-lb
Pros:
-Evo Power!
Cons:
-Cost, complexity, parts are rare


4D56T Diesel (Intercooled variant) 1992-????
136 HP
236 ft-lb
Pros:
-Diesel torque
-Turbo!
-Available in Gen 2 JDM vehicles, swap would be easy with engine, harness,
Cons:
-Accessory parts are unique to 4D56T (intake air box, etc.)
-Requires finding a complete donor vehicle to make swap feasible

Non-Mitsu Engines

Toyota 1UZ-FE Engine
251-300 HP
260-310 ft-lbs
Pros:
-Potentially bolts onto gen2 transmission (confirm?)
-V8 noises
-Toyota reliability
Cons:
-Timing belt
Resources:
https://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=23804
http://www.pajeroclub.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=4099&sid=565eb9229e64266028460d516b1fb5bd
http://www.offroadexpress.kiwi/Forums/viewtopic.php?t=39108

LS1 5.3+ 1996+ Anything Chevy
270-315+ HP
315-338+ ft-lbs
Pros:
-Plentiful
-V8 noises
-Cheap
Cons:
-Requires full swap of engine, transmission, transfer case, custom driveshaft.
-OR custom transfer case adapter ($1000+) to adapt 4L60e to 31 spline transfer case
Resources:

This is just starting point, please post to correct errors and add info and I'll update the main post. 

4
Also had the chance to use some of this excellent "Shinetsu" grease on all the door seals.  I've heard it is used at the plant/factory for some vehicles.  It really restores the softness to the rubber seals, also works great on trim, works much better than Back to Black.



Before:



After:



The dirt and old rubber that comes off with the grease:



Before on trim:


After:


5
Got the front end done on the both sides finally!  New rotors, pads, and re-greased the sliders on the calipers (both sides were frozen!).  Suspension replaced: struts w/ KYB Gas-a-Just, upper ball joint, lower ball joint, inner/outer tie rod ends, sway bar bushings and links, and the steering arms on both sides.  Need to do a string alignment to get it close, but it should drive much nicer now!

Before


Finished

6
I'm up there in MI, so no worries about overheating, just getting the carb tuned to cold start properly!  I will be needing to address that among other little small things.

7
Gen 2 Montero / Re: SR Fender Flares on LS
« on: August 29, 2017, 05:57:46 PM »
OH!!!!! PA_JERO has brand new aftermarket SR clone flares for sale! 

 Short answer, the SR has a ton of rectangle holes in the doors and fenders to fasten the flares. Check out the ones PA_JERO has, they require nutzerts to install so it would be a lot less work and less holes in your body.

Is he selling them on a different forum? I can't seem to find the post here, or I'm being really dull

8
Gen 2 Montero / Re: SR Fender Flares on LS
« on: August 29, 2017, 05:51:50 PM »
Eh you've convinced me, I'll look into the aftermarket ones!

I just want some sweet sweet fender flares and '92 SR wheels to match, just love that look. 

9
Gen 2 Montero / SR Fender Flares on LS
« on: August 29, 2017, 07:25:04 AM »
Is it possible to swap the SR fender flares, bumpers, and ground effects onto an LS model?  Or are they integrated into the actual fender?

Looking into buying an LS but I just love the SR body lines! 

10
Gen 1 Montero / Re: Gen 1 Shifter Refresh - Seals & Springs
« on: August 29, 2017, 06:41:05 AM »
Now to find the return springs, was thinking of checking a trans rebuild shop who specializes in KM145s.

11
I would just give the Lowes stuff a shot, its so cheap and its meant for insulation on outdoor exposed pipes.  Make sure you clean the surface with acetone first so it sticks well.  Time will tell if it holds up to heat!

The interior is so quiet now all we hear is the engine roar  ;D Need to fix some exhaust leaks and get a fan shroud, it's noisy!

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Frost-King-0-125-in-Foam-Plumbing-Pipe-Wrap-Insulation/1081449

Dude, bummer the pics aren't showing, would love to see it.

Thanks for sharing info on the deadner you used. While I agree there is "lot of good info out there," in my opinion there is "TOO MUCH INFO OUT THERE." I read up and think I want something, then don't because that particular product smells like tar. So I start over and think I find something "then come to find out it doesn't do too well in the heat (i live in AZ)...so then i start over and find something, but then I find out it doesn't have adhesive back.......I think i'm just going to go to lowes and pick up the cheap stuff everyone talks about......something is better than nothing i suppose....amiright???



12
Weird, I can get em to work sometimes...I re-host on imgur later to fix it. 

Please let me know if the pics worked! Tried to fix it again.

13
Busted our butts today getting the front end rebuilt and finishing the interior.  Pics to come of the finished interior, it may have ended up with some Sedona, AZ style kitchy seat covers and steering wheel cover to protect them and keep a sweet retro desert theme.



Before the work, after a thorough degreasing and power washing.



Front end getting some love






After, mostly done, sorry didn't get a good finished shot as were down to the wire to get it done yesterday!


14
I called a local audio shop, they quoted waaay to high but the sales person was nice enough to give some cheaper recommendations. He recommended going to home Depot or Lowe's, looking for 1/4 to 1/8 in thick thermal insulation for walk in freezers, and 1/2 thick compressed foam. 

I didn't find either, but got 1/8" thick pipe insulation that looked similar enough, and regular carpet foam.

We installed the piping insulation in the doors inside, and outside panels, and then recovered the factory plastic seal using a plastic drop cloth and permatex right stuff. The doors now sound extremely sold when closing, haven't driven the car to see how it improves road noise but it must be better than the stock bare metal

There is a lot of good info out there on proper sound insulation, basically you need some mass damper on any panel that will vibrate.  This cheap stuff works good enough.  There's a product you can spray on called lizard skin, but its very expensive.  To do this the right way, I would've bought some legit mass dampers for sound deadening, but this was on the cheap and I needed something today!

Started with this (AFTER cleaning, everything was covered with a thick layer of california desert dust! Had to powerwash and degrease the whole interior first!):



Door Panel starting point:



After sound deadener:



After re-sealing with drop cloth plastic and permatex right stuff:



Materials used:

0.125-in Foam Plumbing Pipe Wrap Insulation
Item #:28929 Model #: FV516 (LOWES)
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Frost-King-0-125-in-Foam-Plumbing-Pipe-Wrap-Insulation/1081449

1 Roll was enough to do both doors, would need more to do the rear trunk and the wheel wells.  Since we dont have rear carpet yet, we will wait to do the wheel wells.


15
Bought the book from a local, didn't come with the truck.

More progress!  Finished the full fluid swap, valve cover gasket, spark plugs (old plugs some were finger tight  :o ), and roughly tuning the carb.  I will be installing a wideband AFR meter to tune the carb, I work for OEMs doing engine calibration so a carb is fun to work on.

Interior deep cleaning is nearly complete, seat covers were pulled and washed in the washing machine, carpet power washed.

Will be adding sound deadener material on the carpet, and on various parts of the body before we re-install the interior. 

Pics to come!

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