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Topics - kalieracer

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Gen 1 Montero / US made HP Gen 1 V6 radiators Group Buy
« on: January 18, 2019, 12:46:15 PM »
Custom Alloy Radiator info – US made, US materials, US Labor – These are made by CGJ in AL, 12month warranty * . These units are tested fitted, and checked against denso factory radiators.

Gen 1 V6 Radiator group buy - 6-8 weeks lead time from order placement to ship
Radiator spec – 1.5in 1 Row of 1.25 tube alloy core – 285,000 BTU/H hour rating
Upgraded Plate transcooler, 3/8 NTP bung on top, 3/8 NTP bung on the bottom ฝ NTP anode bung. Offset extended mount to allow trucks to drill new mounting holes. This is a drop in radiator.
5-10 units cost 440 to mfg – Please include 13.06 to cover paypal fees, do not send payment as F&F

Shipping – 35-45 Lower 48 insured. Will be calculated exactly and I will let you know the balance

Gen 2 Montero / US made HP Gen 2 radiators Group Buy
« on: January 18, 2019, 12:37:54 PM »
Custom Alloy Radiator info – US made, US materials, US Labor – These are made by CGJ in AL, 12month warranty * . These units are tested fitted, and checked against denso factory radiators.

Gen 2 3.5L Radiator group buy – 6-8 weeks lead time from order placement to ship
Radiator spec – 2.25inch 2 row of 1inch tubes alloy core – 380000 BTU/H hour rating
Upgraded Plate transcooler, 3/8 NTP bung on top, 3/8 NTP bung on the bottom ฝ NTP anode bung. Offset extended mount to allow trucks to drill new mounting holes. This is a drop in radiator.
5-10 units cost 550 to mfg – Please include 16.25 to cover paypal fees, do not send payment as F&F

Gen 1 V6 Radiator group buy - 6-8 weeks lead time from order placement to ship
Radiator spec – 1.5in 1 Row of 1.25 tube alloy core – 285,000 BTU/H hour rating
Upgraded Plate transcooler, 3/8 NTP bung on top, 3/8 NTP bung on the bottom ฝ NTP anode bung. Offset extended mount to allow trucks to drill new mounting holes. This is a drop in radiator.
5-10 units cost 440 to mfg – Please include 13.06 to cover paypal fees, do not send payment as F&F

Shipping – 35-45 Lower 48 insured. Will be calculated exactly and I will let you know the balance

Payment can be sent to

Gen 3 Montero / 2003-2006 3.8 Timing belt and heavy maintenance list
« on: September 05, 2018, 09:06:08 AM »
2003-2006 3.8 Timing belt and heavy maintenance list. Just a reminder for everyone 100k /60k or 5 years for the first belt depending on where you live and what year truck you have and then 60k or 5 years.. Does not matter if you went 20k in the 5 years do the timing belt service the rubber cracks and dries out. Coolant in most cases is on a shorter cycle. Plugs are 90-100k

Jamie Poulos thanks for going through and cross referencing a good chunk of the part numbers.  Download the Excel or attached jpg

All the info you need to upgrade your front brakes for the Gen 2 trucks - Please read the notes for 92-96 trucks.

Because the forum does not allow uploading of excel files a JPG has been attached and the excel can be downloaded via google drive

Gen 2 Montero / Gen 2 3.5 SOHC Timing belt parts list + Heavy Service info
« on: September 04, 2018, 09:13:10 PM »
So the FB pages get this question 2-3 times a week.

Here is list of the things you should be replacing when doing a Tbelt job to bring you truck up current and make the next while as trouble free as possible. Including all the stuff that is neglected and overlooked or will come back to bit you later. 60k or 5 years

Since the forum does not make is easy to insert an excel sheet -  here is link to download it and JPG with all the part numbers and info

Thermostat Options

NTC WV64MC-68SV - 68c (155f) - Racing thermostat with wax valve - Gradual opening and low hunting (Made for Paj Evo Dakar trucks) - Do not use this in a stock truck unless you live in a place that is hot as heck all the time or have high hp race truck.

AISIN THM010 - 76.5c (170F) (NTC rebox with Tama label)
1305A237, MD174234, MD997608, MD997679

AISIN THM011 - 82c (180F) ( NTC rebox with Tama label) -
1305A191, 212001LA1A, 21200AD201, MD174233, MD194988, MD997644 (Also use for 3.8 conversions)

AISIN THM012 - 88C (190) (NTC rebox with Tama lable)
1305A239, MD350415, MD351861

97-2002 Montero - Fan clutch MD334660
94-95 Montero SR 3.5 - Fan clutch MD303502

NPW - Japanese made
Shimahide - Japanese made
Hayden - Mexico
GMB - China

Fan - 94-96 Montero SR - also fits many older diesel MD050475
Fan 97-2000- Montero and 97-2004 sports. (3.0 / 3.5 ) including Paj Evo use the same fan blade) MD334659

Radiator -MB890951 - 94-2000 3.5 including Paj Evo - 677 wholesale cost
Drop in US or AU made High performance unit 52mm 14FPI  or 55mm Core . 16FPI - 650 - 1600 depending on mfg and cooling requirements. Cores can be optimized for crawling or running flat out or in between.

Info about Brass Copper Vs Alloy

* Extreme cooling Denso F1 cores -
What makes it special? Essentially the tube spacing of the car is very small, only 0.25" center on center vs 0.4" So there are more tubes running across which gives more surface area for the water. Additionally, the fin spacing is very high at 21 Fins per Inch vs 14-18 for other solutions. This gives more surface area for the air to transfer heat. Here's the last bit that will blow your mind. It is 27mm thick.

How can that possibly work? Simple. Specific heat of water is 4.2 times higher than air. That means it takes 4.2 times more energy to heat a qty of water 1 degree than air.

When the cooler outside air hits the radiator, the air heats up 4.2 times the rate the water cools down. Thus the outside face of the radiator does alot of cooling but halfway through the radiator, the air is much hotter but the water only a little cooler. So the back half of the radiator doesn't do much since cooling is also a function of delta between the water and air temps. As the radiator experts told me, the first 1/3 of the radiator does 2/3s of the cooling.

Make sure yours is there and not damaged.

Shroud - MB890979 94-2000 3.5
Shroud lower -MR126903

Radiator cap MB660735 - ,9bar - Use Futaba or Senkei who are the oem for these.
1.1 /1.3 can be used also if you have a larger alloy radiator.

Correct coolants -

Info on coolants - Using the wrong type will damage the lead solder on the brass copper radiator and heater core, as well as not provide the correct metal protection. Mixing different kinds may result in gel forming in the system.

Pentofrost A2
OEM Brand Green Coolant
Mistubishi Green Coolant
*waterless coolants but require change over and prep fluid

Surfactants - Make sure the one you choose works with your coolant and distilled water

Water wetter
lucas super coolant
bg super cool
Royal Purple Ice
Chemical Descaling agents (chelating agent) - Super important that you follow all instructions and use distilled water and the block drains when using these or you will mess things up. They work and many mfgs have them including ford and chevy, but generally only for the service dept.

What the hell are these ...
Main ingredient in themocure Diammonium

Mercedes-Benz Citric Acid Cooling System Flush - 000989102511
Evapo-Rustฎ THERMOCURE - TC001
Motor Medic  Super Heavy Duty Radiator Cleaner - C2232
Irontite Thoro-Flush
Liquid Intelligence 239 Engine Cooling System Cleaning Kit

Fan Modification
Spal 12inch pusher fan mod - Currently working on an adapter to fit in the stock housing - 12-20 amp load
Derale 12 pusher fan mod - Need to cut stock fan housing and rivet fan in place - 20-30 amp load

US made radiator group buy for Spring 2019.
Group buy is now open
*There is min 5 of each style needed to meet the mfg min for pricing. *
*This is for Gen 1 V6 radiators and Gen 2 3.5 Radiators. - *

Gen 2 3.5L Radiator -

Radiator spec – 2.25inch 2 row of 1inch tubes alloy core – 380000 BTU/H hour rating
Upgraded Plate transmission cooler,
3/8 NTP bung on top,
3/8 NTP bung on the bottom
ฝ NTP anode bung.
Offset extended mount to allow trucks to drill new mounting holes.
This is a drop in radiator.
565 each – Please include 18.25 to cover paypal fees, do not send payment as F&F
Gen 1 V6 Radiator
Radiator spec – 1.5in 1 Row of 1.25 tube alloy core – 285,000 BTU/H hour rating
Upgraded Plate transcooler,
3/8 NTP bung on top,
3/8 NTP bung on the bottom
ฝ NTP anode bung. Offset extended mount to allow trucks to drill new mounting holes.
This is a drop in radiator.
5-10 units cost 455 to mfg – Please include 15.06 to cover paypal fees, do not send payment as F&F

Payment can be sent to - Shipping will charges will be provided once the GB is closed and I send in the order to the MFG.
Shipping will run around 42- 65 based on the last run in the lower 48.
MFG generally takes about 4-8 weeks from the placement of order. Last batch they shipped at 7 weeks.

Gen 2 3.5 $565 – Please include 18.25 to cover paypal fees, do not send payment as F&F
Gen 1 3.0 $455 – Please include 15.06 to cover paypal fees, do not send payment as F&F

Gen 2 Montero / High preformance Gen 2 3.5 radiators
« on: July 29, 2018, 09:16:01 PM »

Calling all Gen 2 3.5l owners. We are about ready for the manufacture of upgraded radiators. I should preface this post is not for sale ad and I have already spoken to many of top custom/racing radiator mfgs about this including those in AU.

Please keep in mind that a new Denso unit is over 700 at the dealer (limited to stock on hand as it is out of production) and many of the after market Brass copper radiators are either out of production or sub par in the cooling dept. That will only leave you with cheap AL / Plastic units / Rebuilt stock units (assuming you can have yours done or find one to rebuild) or custom one offs which will cost you 1000-1500 from most any good mfg in the US.

As it sits the US MFG will need to do radiators in batches of 5-10 to make it worth while and affordable. US units include an upgraded in tank trans cooler (12 inch plate with AN fittings (Brass bar fittings included for use with stock hoses), NTP bung on the hot side. Extended brackets for both the shroud and mounts (for you body lift guys) and those looking to make a custom shroud. Internal baffle for better cooling. Also every part and material is US made. Will support 500HP. Unit is furnace brazed and tig welded. Retains stock cooling fan

If you are interested please check out the MMUSA Garage sale page or the for Sale section here

For Sale Automotive / 1996 Montero SR - Project truck.
« on: November 13, 2017, 08:59:38 AM »
96 SR - 233k - Runs and drives.

Runs but needs Valve seals and a EGR pipe. Bought it was project, started replacing the little trim and getting a replacement motor ready. Typical clear coat peeling and the front 2 seats need to be replace. Tires are decent, radiator is newer. I ended up with a 97 that I am doing a Mivec swap on because the engine was already out and taken apart.. It is supposedly registered non op (I never transferred the title from my buddy who bought it)

Have a block and heads for the truck that I was going to build my stroker motor on for a couple bucks extra

Gen 2 Montero / Gen 2 / 2.5 Mivec Swap + 3.8 Swap info
« on: November 12, 2017, 10:55:36 PM »
Mivec Swap info + Non Mivec 3.8

This is information that has been compiled by not just me but others. ChargerX3 and Dwight (Not sure of his handle on here). Thanks to Ernest and Toasty for being sounding boards and all your input. Info will be updated and added as new things come to light.

So you are wondering why people are talking about or doing this swap.. It's all about power. While the 3.8 Mivec is not a power house like 4g63 or 2Jz TT, LS7.. It is huge drop in upgrade to our off road rigs that requires very little fabrication and keeps the cost fairly low. Parts can be purchased locally or any dealer.  They make over 280hp to the wheels with just a couple mods and no tuning. So going from 195Hp at the crank to over 280 to the wheels is a huge upgrade.

Non Mivec 3.8 - These motors can be found in a ton of FWD cars, FWD / Gen 2.5 trucks the same bolt pattern on the Water pump and Oil pump so it's possible to convert the FWD blocks to RWD. These motors are cheap, they can be found with fairly low miles and start at $450. You can also just drop it in and the truck can adjust for the new motor somewhat. I do suggest getting a tune done 98+ trucks.

You will want to start with a  97-99 truck (SR or Winter Package or base 3.5L) these trucks are going to have most of the stock parts, you need to swap over. 

Gen 2 92- 93, Gen 2 (94-96), Mighty Max / Delica / Montero Sport see bottom of FAQ
1G 4cyl, see bottom of FAQ for alternate swap info.


1 6G75 Mivec Motor from an Eclipse (2006*-2012) - Cost 650 - 1400  Note: 2008- 2012 models have different oil housings for the Mivec controls and will have less of an issue with fire wall clearance. The newer setup uses a single solenoid and single housing, the drivers side head is connected with a oil line on the back side of the head to run the Mivec - This is how the Gen 4/5 Mivec Pajero's are setup on the global market

* 2006 - 2007 - You can swap over the shorter oil control housing to the older motors but it will have to keep the second Mivec housing on the drivers side to work.

2. 6G75 Mivec motor from a Pajero - JDM engine places can get them. There is even one on ebay new in a crate for 3k right now in AU. 

3.  6G75 Non Mivec FWD - This is a easy conversion that doesn't require anything super fancy, though a tune would be optimal. Directions are the same as the Mivec motor in tems of the parts you need to make it work. $450 + and will take you up to 245 hp.

3. Hybrid motors / Paj Evo setups * For those looking to do more exotic builds or swaps.

1. 30M swap, this is 266HP 3.0 Dohc Mivec motor, you will need a 94-96 Truck for it's manifold and plenum .

2.You can take 30m heads Dohc Mivec and put them on 3.5 Dohc Block. That will get you the base setup of Paj Evo. If you were looking to do something more exotic you can do the same setup with 3.8 stroker motor, it will require custom pistons and 3.8l crank. This is perfect if you have 94-96 and are really bored and want a harder project.

Parts to swap over - I suggest putting in all new seals/ gaskets / hoses everywhere since you have the motors apart. Don't forget the front pump seal on the trans either.

Block + Accessories

1. Oil Pump ( I suggest getting a new 3.5 / 3.8 Oil Pump) I cross referenced the part number and the Mivec and Non Mivec motors have the same part number.
2. Oil Pan - Will need to tap bock for two bolts and swap over your oil filter housing
3. Oil Pick up * See info in fabrication section
4. Your stock crank sensor
5. Water pump for your 3.5L or 3.8L (Gen 3) (I suggest getting a new Aisin unit), water pipe (small and large) , thermostat housings , cross over water pipe at the rear of the head
6. Flywheel , Flex plate , Starter plate
7. 3.5L / 3.8L Exhaust manifolds (the ones that are on your truck any 3.5 including sports) or Headers Pacemaker / Wildcat / Hurricane / Genie will fit but will need some tweaking the NL-NM models Gen 2.5 (3.5 round port) - Gen 3 3.5/3.8L . Some international models don't have EGR so headers and import exhaust manifolds might not have the ports, check before you purchase.
9. Motor mounts - * Fab required (See fabrication section)
10. Timing components - 3.5L / 3.8L Timing belt, 3.8L Eclipse tensioner, tensioner bearings * you need to take over the spacer from the old motor for one of the bearings.
11. Rest of your parts from your truck (Accessory girdle, Alt, Starter, AC, PS Pump)
12. Timing belt covers * See fabrication section
13. Knock sensor and bracket (For those who might not have one on their junk yard motor)

Upper end + Injectors

1. Lower Plenum - *6G74 Sohc RWD  ** 6g75 Sohc RWD 3.8L 6g75 Sohc RWD Mivec *** 6g75 Mivec FWD ****
* I suggest a gasket match port for this one
** This is a US spec and will fit older style injectors
*** This is an international part (Can be sourced via ebay and other sites) meant for return-less fuel system setups  and uses different fuel rail mounts, though early 2004 3.8 Endevor fuel rails fit and can me modded for a return.
**** Only works with the stock FWD manifold, it can be modded for RWD.
2. Stock Fuel rail if you are swapping in to a gen 2.5  truck
3. FPR - You will need either 94-96 Dohc regulator or an Adjustable unit, upon researching the Dohc SR unit is the same part number as the Pajero Evo (6an adapters from 3000gt / EVO / DSM) to the fuel rail are cheap and easy to get)
4. Injectors - 305cc or higher (High Impedance injectors, peak and hold) You will want new style with more than 4 holes. The reason I say higher is that a stock eclipse motor is capable of making over 300whp or over 330hp at the crank if you take the cats off and that needs about 360cc injectors.    You will need to know what plugs your current ones have, adapters might be needed.
5. Coils 6g74 Sohc and wires
6. Get Iridium plugs for the Eclipse motor.

Intake Manifolds and TB

6g74 Sohc RWD - This is a long flat pan cake manifold, it will likely give decent low end but will kill all out power, but is the easiest to fit. Requires the EGR port removed and relocated (if required for your truck and emissions) due to the rocker covers being so tall)  My 1997 CA model does not have EGR / My 99 Federal does have it.  You will need to take come material off the bottom of the runners to clear the valve cover. You could also get a Pholnic spacer to raise it up a bit, but the egr port will still need to go from it's current location.

6g75 Sohc RWD 3.8 - This is the exact same unit the Mivec motors are coming with in the Pajeros. I am going to say this one will give the best performance between the two stock units. This manifold requires a bit of clean up near the egr port to not hit the rocker cover. I suspect the Paj Mivec has slightly taller plenum or the flashing on the casting trimmed off more. This manifold is setup for Drive by wire setup. I am in the process of working out the brackets for the two cables (Throttle and Trans Kickdown). RPW did this on RHD Gen2.5 so we know it works. This manifold might not clear trucks with out a 2 inch body lift. I also suspect that gen 2/2.5 / 3 (3.5) trucks will need their rubber intake boot changed to custom metal pipe as the tb will not be in the factory location - No easy way to make this work on 2g truck

6g75 Sohc FWD 3.8 - You can mod this to work with some cutting and welding (I saw it being readied ) for Delica Mivec swap.

6g74 Dohc 3.5 RWD - Fits but man it but as one member who got this working on his set said.. It's a jigsaw puzzle. This requires a mix of parts to work. More on this later

Custom manifold - more on this later

You will have to use your stock unit. Gen 2/2.5 can have their 60mm units bored out to 65mm. I am sure the gen 3 3.5 is going to be the same deal. 3.8 drive by wire units, I would leave stock, my experience with Nissan's leads me to believe this would fuck up the unit's calibration.

* for those swapping in to earlier models (you will need gen 2.5 unit) I suspect that 94-96 will also work fine and might be larger, don't have one to measure. (if you have one out of a truck) send me the info and I will add it.

Fabrication Required -

Motor mounts -
1. You will either need to tap the block to some larger bolts or weld some plates to reach the already tapped bosses.
2. Weld on a boss and tap.. *Get an expert welder to help with this, welding on cast iron is not easy)

Oil pick up - You will need to cut the baffle and massage the pick up to fit - Will add photos of this.

Oil pan - You need to drill and tap two bolt holes

Cable bracket - For the 6G75 manifold you will need to fab the Throttle / Kick down bracket and brackets for the coil ignitor.

Manifold Brackets - You will need to make some to keep the manifold from moving and attach them to the head.

Block drop in brackets - You will need to find or make one so you can drop the block in safely for the passenger side.

Timing belt covers - Since this is an unsupported configuration you might not get the same coverage with the factory 3.5 covers, you will need to use the lower 3.5 unit and cut the ones that came on the Mivec motor (Eclipse).

Other items

Fuel Pump - You will need to seal a denso pump out of any 300+ HP car that uses a return style fuel system. 3000GT TT, Supra, 300 ZX, Subie, EVO or an aftermarket unit.

ECU - * All of these will need some or a ton of wiring depending on the truck the motor is going in.Listed in cheapest to most expensive. The closer to stock the ECU is the more sensor compatibility there is. Aftermarket ECU's allow for all sorts of fun stuff like digital clusters, speed density and other control. Gen 1 - 2.5 trucks. Gen 3 trucks will just need their stock ECU reprogrammed as it controls their trans too. 

1. 98/99 Dohc NA 3000 GT ECU - Will need to be tuned * May or May not run the Variable intake manifold, has electric fan and knock control.No Mivec
2. 98/99 Montero ECU Modded * will need to add knock control circuits and tune. No Mivec
3. Chrome ECU - Can run the Variable intake manifold (Mivec control is still being worked out) Mostly Plug and Play to the harness, has electric fan and knock control. Can be used for forced induction and has ODB II and emissions monitors (Fed and CA)
4. AEM EMS Infinity or AEM Series 2 for 3000GT (First gen units were GEMS UK ECUs, same one many WRC teams used back in the day, they have since been spun off as Simtek)
5. Haltec - I have not used one of these in over 15 years so not sure of the current offerings
6. Megasquirt - I have not used one of these as a stand alone yet.

Wiring and connectors - They can be purchased at the link below. Make sure you buy shielded wiring for the knock sensors and the correct factory sealed connectors / wiring type. Sheridan has been selling these items for the DSM/ 3000GT crowd for a long time and are good people.

Mivec Triggering

MSD Window Switch
Bride Vtech / Mivec controller
AEM Infinity has controls for Mivec / Vtech stock

Cooling - I suggest a higher capacity alloy radiator (ADD will be selling a nice US made unit shortly) and electric fans and second trans cooler with electric fan. I also suggest a coolant pressure / level system so if you happen to drop a hose and leak coolant it warns you so you don't kill your nice new motor.

1. Clean and refurbish your factory radiator if you are not going to get high performance unit.
2. Install new fan clutch (they are cheap and it's way easier do it now
3. Flush new block (who knows how long it's been sitting with coolant in it)
4. Convert to electric fans.

Exhaust + Cat - If you are looking to make the full power out of the motor, you will need a 2.75 or 3inch single pipe unit with cat / cats to match. There is a table in the link below to give you an estimated size of pipe required. You may or may not need a body lift to make it happen.  If you make any changes to your emissions system make sure they are legal in your state.

Engine Monitoring - I am going to go with MAD man Engine monitor system. AEM EMS will allow for a digital panel and monitors. You may also want an EGT or AF/ Ratio gauge at the very least

Transmission - The Aisin Warner unit in Gen 2 trucks is good for about 320/330 HP. They can be rebuilt to handle over 900whp.

1.Install fresh fluid and filter
2. Transgo shift kit if you are down there already.

Misc Parts and things to do if you are already in there.

1. Extend Trans / Diff / Center diff breathers while the motor is out and they are accessible.
2. Change front Trans pump seal
3. Back flush heater core
4. Change heater core hoses
5. Add heat protection to wiring looms, especially if you add headers.
6. Add bungs for EGT and a Wideband.
7. Mivec Emblems - No point in doing any of this if you can't put a sticker or emblem on the truck.
8. Use a Eclipse oil filter, it has higher filter flow and different bypass valve PSI - Use a good brand like Wix or Purolator Boss
9. Use 10/30 Synthetic oil or 5/20 if you are in a cold area.

Big Brake upgrade - More power means you need bigger better brakes - Will add info on this with part numbers.

Other Trucks

Gen 1 4 cyl trucks - You need to look at doing 2.4 Turbo or 2.4 Dohc swap - I have that planned for a Starion build and the tech info will be the same for you. You will need a 2.4 wide block 4g64 out of D50 / Mightly Max from the 90s. 1 or 2 G head and wire harness out gen 2 eclipse and ecu (98-99) is flashable. Gen 2 works better because the cam and crank sensors are on the front of the motor vs the back of the head (they make it hard to convert to rwd) when they are there.

Gen 1 V6 - I suggest getting a harness out of junked truck and the ECU / MAF / O2 and all the other parts needed for the conversion (I have found gen 2.5 trucks with blown motors as low as 300 bucks) So if you have the space you can scavenge what you need and sell the rest to cover costs.

Gen 2 94-96 DOHC Trucks - This swap will work just fine in your trucks too, you already have knock sensors and variable induction, but your ECU's are not flashable - You will need a 3 plug chrome ECU or EMS to do this swap. List of required parts

6g74 SOHC - Alternator bracket (one from a 3.5 sport fits)
6g74 SOHC - Intake and plenum or alternate intakes discussed above.
6G74 SOHC - Water pipe (rear, thru heads,) + thermostat housings, water neck.
6G74 SOHC - Exhaust manifolds-
6g74 SOHC - Brake booster line (if not using your stock manifold)
6G74 SOHC - cooling fan, crank pulley, various fan pulleys. Fan clutch. temp sensors.

Montero Sports - 98/99 - I suspect you just need to follow the gen 2.5 instructions for these with 6G74 SOHC

Mitsubishi Related / Wiring harness plug replacements
« on: August 20, 2017, 11:45:20 PM »
So while working on my 1999 gen 2.5 truck, I broke one the brittle connectors to the ignition control module. Would anyone be interested in a kit of the correct connectors ?

I am thinking of asking Sheridan Engineering to modify their NT 3000gt kits for the 94-96 guys and 97-2000 trucks

Mitsubishi Related / Ball Joints / Tie rods and CVboots
« on: August 14, 2017, 09:50:49 AM »
Hey has anyone used the OEM Sankei ball joints and TRW tie rods? Also any thoughts on Moog verses EMPI on the CV boots?

Build Threads / 1997 Montero SR - The white ghost
« on: August 05, 2017, 08:40:20 PM »
Started out with 1997 SR, with a blown motor. Current State of my build.

3.8L Mivec motor swapped in
3inch exhaust from the y pipe back
Hybrid intake manfold with VICS
Custom PNP ECU (using the stock harness) ECU with Knock control, vics, mivec and electric fan control
Updated 370CC 12 hole injectors
Pajero EVO FPR
Custom Alloy radiator with uprated transcooler
SPAL AC fan upgrade.
SPAL 16inch cooling fan - Next phase project
Uprated oil and externa transcooler / with spal fan - Nextphase project
AEM Wideband Controller
Waterless coolant
170degree tstat
4.63 regear (pending install)
Front locker (pending install)
160a Custom alternator
uprated charge wires and grounds

Chassis -
Fox 2.0 reservoir shocks with LSC adjusters - Custom valved and sized (Pending install)
Siberian Bushings all around
KING (AU) HD rear springs
ADD Swayaway HD torsions
315mm Slotted Cryo treated front big brakes with EBC Red (prototype pads)
Slotted Cryo Treated rear brake rotors
SS extended brake lines and chassis to axle extended line
ADD armor - Next phase of project
Sliders - Next phase of project
ADD King pin - Next phase
16x8 Forged Weld Outbacks with 285/75 Pirelli MTR tires.

99 Safari Grill
99 Head lights
Euro clear corners
Stech switch system
Window visors
Alloy roof rack - next phase project
bumpers - next phase project

Interior -
Bouncy seats - Pending install
rear compartment build with second battery- Next phase project

Lighting -
Looking for suggestions.

Mitsubishi Related / Gen 2 - Wheel offset / backspace question
« on: July 16, 2017, 06:25:57 PM »
Just picked up a 96 SR (should be here this coming week). Current plan is to get all the maintenance done and then do suspension / brakes. Since I want to do the 315mm Big Brake upgrade and SS lines at the same time. I will need to get new wheels and tires. Looking to get either a 16x8 or 17x8.5 wheel. What sorta offset and back space should I be looking for? I want to get get 32s on there and widen the track a bit.

I am thinking this combo would work but I am not sure. This is my first time setting up an off road truck.

FN Five 5 Star 16" gunmetal wheels. 16x8 -25 offset 3.52" backspace 108mm hub bore with a Maxxis LT275/70R16 Tire

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