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Topics - MrGalantguy

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1
Gen 3 Montero / Hydraulic brake booster repair
« on: October 05, 2018, 06:10:31 AM »
Last week my wifes Gen 3 hydraulic brake booster finally gave up while she was on her way from my brother in laws house. The ABS light and Brake light came on and then a constant buzzing sound from the dash suddenly..so she pulled into a neighborhood. She still had brakes so she called me and told me the issue and she was about less than a mile from home so I said try to make it home. When she proceeded to go home she lost her brakes completely...pedal got very stiff with little to no brake pressure, she pulled into a super market parking lot relying on her E-brake.

I got home and started to diagnose and after some quick research I read the culprit is the pump motor so I checked for that 1st. I turned the key on the "ON" position and you should hear the pump/accumulator cycle but I didn't anything at all. After attempting to check a couple times the pump was definitely the pump motor.

I ordered a HBB unit from a fellow Montero owner from the FB for sale groups and he came through with a very reasonable price and shipped it out promptly. Once I received it i prepped the unit and proceeded to install it and go through the normal way I always bleed my systems for year with my bleeder kit. I was having no luck...pedal was going straight to the floor even with pressing the pedal 30-40x's to prime the accumulator. I was hearing and seeing the pump cycling when I had the key on the ON position but I couldn't get the system to bleed correctly.

I found this article on a Pajero owners group and followed the steps they posted and it worked for me. Also this link has tips on diagnosing and repairing the HBB pump motor. I found out the Toyota and Lexus share the similar Aisin HBB units. The design of the units are different..but seems they all use the same pumps at the Gen 3 Monteros so this allows for more options to find a replacement motor.

https://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=46516

Monty by grimgs, on Flickr
The original failed unit

Monty by grimgs, on Flickr
The new "used" HBB unit

Monty by grimgs, on Flickr
I will most likely get the original failed HBB sent out for a rebuild. Rockauto has a procedure to send your HBB out for a rebuild...I believe its $300 to get it rebuild.

Monty by grimgs, on Flickr
Taking out the HBB is really simple.

-x4 brake lines on the unite (x2 on the front and x2 on the side where the accumulator sits
-Disconnect the pin where the brake pedal attaches to the HBB unit which is a cotter pin and the lock pin slides out.
-x4 12mm mounting nuts inside firewall.



I was eventually successful bleeding the system and after driving the Montero for 30 mins...the HBB unit sorted itself out and pedal feel got closer to normal and the ABS and BRAKE light eventually went off including the buzzing sound after the HBB unit cycled a few times.



2
My radiator was pretty clogged and I had it rodded out and the radiator shop owner highly recommended me to flush out to remaining coolant in the system which could have debris in the coolant that clogged my radiator in the 1st place. I researched on the internet and youtube and kept running into the garden hose method which be fine and dandy in area with cleaner tap water than florida. I live in Florida and our tap water isn't the greatest as its known being "hard water" due to the limestone content and other minerals and I honestly didn't want that running through my cooling system.

I thought of the idea of running distilled purified water using a transfer pump instead and went ahead and bought what I needed to try this method out.
Groot by grimgs, on Flickr

I bought this transfer pump from Harbor Freight which cost me $40 and pumps 240 gals a hour which would simulate the water pressure of a water coming from the hose. Pump comes also with a short garden hose and extra gasket and impeller wheel. Alligator clips clamp to the battery with a on/off switch and this pump works very well.
Groot by grimgs, on Flickr

For the input I used a spare garden hose. I strongly recommend if you use this method try to find a short garden hose as possible to make it easier for the pump and accurately "measure" the water being transferred. Also prime the input hose before switching on the pump to prevent burnout of the rubber impeller wheel.

I bought 7 gallons of purified distilled water which were 85 cents a gallon...IMO totally worth it to keep my cooling system in good shape in the long run.

Make sure you remove the thermostat prior to flushing out the system and reinstall the cover. Make sure the hose coming from the output of the pump runs where the lower radiator hose inlet. I used duct tape to seal the garden hose so water doesn't leak out.
Groot by grimgs, on Flickr
Groot by grimgs, on Flickr

Now since the water will be coming out of the upper radiator hose outlet you will have to figure out a way to guide the water to flow a different direction. If you just leave the outlet open it will just spray all over the battery, fuse box, etc area. I found a spare lower radiator from my 96 Galant and it was shaped and long enough to guide the water towards the bottom area where the steering gear is at.

Once you have it all sorted out switch the pump on and it should start pumping water through the system. It will be gushing out a lot to keep an eye on the water level of what the pump is transferring, you don't want to run the pump dry and destroying the impeller wheel.
Groot by grimgs, on Flickr

(I pumped the water out of each gallon but it would of made it easier if you got a bigger bucket or even one of those water cooler jugs to pump the distilled water out of. This will be a consistent and longer flow of water to flush out your system)

Once you see the water coming out clear..your system is flushed and you can reinstalled everything back in and take the normal steps to make sure you burp your cooling system and test drive the vehicle to see if there are any leaks.

Tip from the radiator shop owner: He said after you flush the system, fill it with concentrated antifreeze since there is already water in your system to keep the ratio "50/50".

3
Mitsubishi Related / How to wire up JDM corner lens to UDSM Monteros.
« on: October 16, 2017, 08:11:15 AM »
For those looking to swap your usdm amber corner lens for the JDM corner lens. Since the USDM's have a single socket for a dual filament bulbs you will have to rewire to work with the JDM corner lens since the driving and signal lights are separate.

Tools you will need:
-Philips head screwdriver
-Flathead screwdriver
-Needle picker or extra small flathead screwdriver
-Electrical tape
-Solder tool and solder (Optional)
-Heat shrink (Optional)

-1st you will have to remove the corner lens which is easy to do. You will have a Philips head screw in the end of the inside fender which holds the bracket of the lens that is removed. In the inside of the fender you will see a spring and hook...just unhook that from the fender. Take you flathead screwdriver I recommend covering the end with some type of cloth so you don't damage the lens and gently pry the lens towards you where the headlight and lens meet and should pop right out.

-Unhook bulb socket from plug or just unlock the whole bulb socket from the corner lens.

-I try to keep things "factory" like so I wanted to find the bulb sockets that would work with the supplied bulb plugs that came with the JDM corner lens.
**The JDM driving light socket w/ pigtail plug is identical from a 1997 Mitsubishi Expo I found in the salvage yard
**The turn signal light socket I have not yet found to match the JDM one. I will update this when I do.

Groot by grimgs, on Flickr
Groot by grimgs, on Flickr

Above is a comparison of the JDM sockets that came with the corner lens and the ones I pulled from Mitsubishi vehicles in the salvage yard. For the signal the closest one to fit are from a 7th gen Galant but the socket plugs do not screw right up to the JDM sockets. The driving light sockets are exact match to the Mitsubishi Expo.

Groot by grimgs, on Flickr
What you will need to do on the USDM single socket plug is remove the pins from the socket. There will be 3 pins with 2 positive wires indicated in green and a single ground pin (black wire). You will need to use a needle picker or a really small flathead screwdriver to remove the pins from the socket. If you cut the pigtails for the sockets you will have to remove the wire pins also the same way OR splice the pigtail wires to the existing harness on the Montero.

Groot by grimgs, on Flickr
As stated above I haven't found a plug to match the provided socket on the JDM corners so for right now the pins are directly plugged to the socket male pins. The signal bulb is on the top part of the JDM corner lens. The signal power wire is green with the yellow stripe. If you look into the socket the negative pin contact is higher on the wall of the socket while the positive is lower...just follow the contact to the associated pin and connect the wire pins accordingly.

Groot by grimgs, on Flickr
Now for the driving lights you will do the same except since there is only 1 ground wire on the USDM harness you will have to splice another ground wire to the existing ground wire.

Groot by grimgs, on Flickr
 I soldered the extra ground wire for the driving lights ...I recommend doing this. Same rules apply wiring the socket and plug like the signal bulb as far at matching which is positive and negative like the signal socket.

Groot by grimgs, on Flickr
Once you got the sockets wired up make sure test them out to see if the lights work as they should and make any corrections needed. Do this especially before you decide to apply heat shrink like in the pic above just in case you have to fix a issue in the wiring.

**The supplied turn signal bulb on the JDM corners worked but if you use them you will run into the issue where w/o the brake applied they "pulse" normally but when you apply the brakes they will have a more rapid frequency. This is because of the bulb resistance and also the supplied bulb isn't bright. I switched to a 1156a amber bulb which is bigger and works properly and has a brighter light output. I recommend switching to this bulb if you convert to JDM corners.

I will update this tutorial with more detailed pics.

4
Gen 2 Montero / Speedometer and Odometer not functioning.
« on: October 02, 2017, 10:20:55 AM »
Like the title says...both stopped working last Friday going to work. Speedometer would work normally then start the needle would go all over the place on the way to work and when I went to go home it continued to do the same and halfway home it just stopped working all together. I looked through the FSM a little bit this weekend but will have to look a little more but I called Mitsubishi today and they say there is are Vehicle speed sensors on the transmission.

Has anyone had this issue before and how you diagnosed the issue? This is on my 98 Gen 2.5 btw.

5
Current Build/Modification list As of 02/2019

Powerplant
-Refreshed 6G74 with all new top end OEM Mitsubishi gaskets
-Aisin Water pump
-Gates Timing belt kit with tension and idler pulleys.
-OEM Rear and Front main seals
-OEM Coolant Orings and gaskets
-OEM thermostat and radiator cap
-Gates accessories belts
-NGK spark plug wires
-NGK Platinum plugs
-New OEM harmonic balancer
-Updated OEM crank bolt
-Beck Arnley fuel injector seals and Orings
-OEM Mitsubishi top end gaskets replaced.
-Rodded out OEM radiator as of 6/16/18


Suspension / Wheels & Tires
- 15x8 -13 offset Work Deerfield 3 piece wheels (Restored and refinished with gloss black lip / satin black face)
- 32x11.5x15 Rolling Big Power Repulser M/T's
- New OEM Mitsubishi Idler arm with Adventure Driven Design Kingpin upgrade
- Beck Arnley Inner Tie Rods
- Beck Arnley Outer Tie Rods
Upcoming upgrades
-Siberian UCA bushings
-Siberian LCA bushings
-Siberian front sway bar bushings
-Siberian rear sway bar bushings
-Siberian rear endlink bushings
-Adventure Driven Design chromoly upper ball joints
-Adventure Driven Design chromoly lower ball joints



Drivetrain
-Gen 2 "Whiteball" tcase shifter swap
-New OEM Output shaft seals
-New OEM Front pump seal
-AMSOIL synthetic ATF
-AMSOIL gear oil for Tcase and front/rear differentials
-New OEM transmission filter & gasket
-Adventure Driven Design Siberian Bushing transmission mounts
-AISIN FHM-002 Manual hubs


Interior / Exterior
-Kenwood double din touchscreen headunit
-Rockford Fosgate 4" dash speakers
-Rockford Fosgate 6 1/2 door speakers
-JDM Pajero Super Select tire cover
-JDM/Asian market Aluminum front skid plate with "Pajero" lazer cut
-JDM Koito corner lens
-JDM Pajero rear spoiler
-JDM OEM Mitsubishi Pajero fender sidemarker lens
-JDM OEM Mitsubishi PAJERO rear plate emblem.
-JDM "Clear lens" aftermarket taillights
-Liebao Heijinggang Taillights
-E-Go Bike Roof Basket

Lighting
-LEDvillage "Black Beast" 921/915/T15 bulbs for 3rd brake light.
-LED Beamtech 6500k Hi/Lo bulbs
-LED Calias "yellow" foglight bulbs
-LED EndPage 1156 Amber Yellow, Super Bright 3030 Chips with Projector (For front turn signals)
-LED SiriusLED Canbus error free Size 921 Super Bright 3030 SMD Xenon White 6000k (For driving lights in corner JDM lens)
-LED SiriusLED Canbus error free Size 921 Super Bright 3030 SMD Xenon White 6000k (For rear back up lights on JDM rear taillights)
-LED AMAZENAR Type 1156 BA15S Extremely Bright Amber/Yellow LED Light (For rear turn signals)
-iJDMTOY (1) 3-Pin CF-13 Electronic Flasher Relay Fix For LED Turn Signal Light Bulbs (Replaced OEM flasher relay to fix "Hyperflash" for LED signals)
-LED SMD interior bulbs replaced
-NiLight LED front pod lights
-NiLight LED flush mounted lights (In place of OEM backup lights on rear bumper. Back up lights rewired to JDM taillights)



Overland/Camping Equipement
-Jaos half face bull bar
-LUSO Overland recovery point hitch
-Vault 3/4 recovery shackle
-Yakima shovel/axe mounting brackets
-POTEK 750W Power inverter
-Fiskars 375581 Axe
-Krazy Beaver Shovel w/ guard
-X-Bull Traction pads 3rd Gen (Olive)
-WellVisors part#3-847MI011







As some of you know I used to own a 2000 Montero Sport XLS 4WD that I recently sold in March. I loved it..but it was a bit small and wasn't going to fit my needs in the near future on what I wanted to do with my family and future business endeavor. I was actually in the search for a Gen 2 or 2.5 prior to purchasing my Montero Sport but couldn't find a decent one and needed a vehicle so I decided on the Montero Sport.

Montero sport by grimgs, on Flickr
Montero sport by grimgs, on Flickr

I bought it in 2014 for $4k and I sold it for $4500...so I made some money driving it for 3 years. :victory:

Here is a little backround about me...if you find this boring, then feel free to scroll on down to the pictures and eye candy content. I have owned about a dozen Mitsubishis and from my username I have a soft spot for Galants. My 1st car was a 1981 Oldsmobile Cutlass Surpreme 442 which was a awesome car as a 1st car. My dad passed it down to me and even got it freshly repainted for me when he handed me the keys to it. My dad taught me car repair stuff with that car, lots of family memories with that car and not to mention I was the "cool guy" with the cool car. I had to part ways with it because my mom wanted me to have a newer car..something with a/c and more reliable to get me back and forth from college, so we went to CarMax and I originally wanted a 240sx because of the shape and style of it but my dad insisted getting me a sedan instead of a coupe...I couldn't complain, they were buying the car for me. Then I saw this 1995 White Mitsubishi Galant...I liked it, kinda looked like a 240sx but with 4 doors and after visiting the Philippines and being 1st exposed the Mitsubishis over there I developed a liking of their vehicles since my uncle owned several...Pajero, Delica and a Lancer Evo 2.

I could go on and on about my Mitsus I have owned but I will just do a run down list of what Mitsus I owned in order:
-95 Galant S
-96 Galant S (still own)
-93 Mirage
-91 Galant VR4 (still own)
-91 Eclipse GSt
-99 Galant ES
-05 Lancer Evo
-04 Endeavor XLS
-97 Eclipse GSX
-02 Montero Limited (still own)
-98 Galant ES
-96 Galant S
-00 Montero Sport
-98 Montero (new)

Ok now...lets fast forward and focus on why I finally got a Montero. Like previously state above..I sold my Montero Sport, don't get me wrong...I really liked it but I felt it was a little too small and wasn't really the Montero I wanted. I have liked the Montero/Pajero for awhile..since 1999 in fact when I went to the Philippines and rode in my uncles LWB Pajero turbo diesel majority of the time I was there for a month. I was wowed by its ability to tackle the 3rd world like quality roads in the Philippines with no effort and how it just navigated and maneuvered through mountain passes in not so ideal conditions. I would say the seed was planted back then..and stayed dormant for many years as I was young and owning a SUV wasn't nowhere in my scope yet. Not till me and my wife decided to get a SUV as we were planning to have a family mainly because of the practicality of one and my wife NOT wanting to drive a minivan we finally bought our 1st SUV a 2004 Endeavor. After a bad accident and that got totaled..we got her into a 2002 Montero Limited and that is when that seed started to grow. After driving it for awhile and spotting a 98-00 Montero randomly I fell in love with those blister fenders and then brought back memories of my uncles mid 90's Gen 2 from the Philippines and my urge to own one started to grow even more. The end of 2016..it didn't help joining FB groups, and seeing photos on Instagram...I decided to finally pursue and own a Gen 2.5 of my own.

I wanted a winter package one with minimal to no rust, in good condition and really wanted to find one white. I happened to find one at a Nissan dealer in Washington state with 200k miles 1 owner, no accidents, with a long carfax history of maintenance mostly done by the the Nissan dealer I bought it from. I had a buddy look at it in person and test drive it and other than the common oil leak from the valve gaskets..its a perfect running Montero. Finally finalized the sale this week and the auto transport is scheduled to pick it up Monday this coming week.  I was able to negotiate a cash deal...basically "I can wire the money now at this price", so I got it $2k out the door.

1998 Mitsubishi Montero Winter package w/ adjustable suspension

I was able to take a few screens shots before the dealer took it down from their website after the sale was finalized.
Groot by grimgs, on Flickr
Groot by grimgs, on Flickr
Groot by grimgs, on Flickr
Groot by grimgs, on Flickr
Groot by grimgs, on Flickr
Groot by grimgs, on Flickr
Groot by grimgs, on Flickr
Groot by grimgs, on Flickr
Groot by grimgs, on Flickr
Groot by grimgs, on Flickr

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