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Topics - na3s

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For Sale Automotive / Gen 1 Dash Gauge Cluster (Volt/Incline/Oil Pressure)
« on: February 23, 2019, 04:38:02 PM »
I was at a yard grabbing some parts this afternoon and pulled this gauge cluster from a '90 LWB Gen 1 I swiped a bouncy seat base from.

I seem to recall these were somewhat sought after, it was in decent shape and the price was reasonable so I grabbed it thinking someone might be in search of one.

Came from a blue interior, the incline meter seems to work side to side but not fore and aft, volt and oil gauge look good, one of the 4 mounting tabs was broken off (pic #10) but shouldn't impact it much.

Full pics -

PM me an offer if interested, it should fit in a large USPS flat rate box.

Mitsubishi Related / 100mm CV Axle Questions
« on: February 23, 2019, 12:10:55 AM »
Iíve been researching replacement CV axles and have found several references to the fact that Ď94-í96 3.5 DOHC SRs, and possibly Ď97-í98 3.5 SOHC SRs, have stronger 100mm CV axles vs the more common 95mm Montero/Montero Sport CV axles and can be run with minimal modifications:

Iím a bit uncertain about what the 95mm vs 100mm measurement actually refers to on the CV axle. Can anyone confirm the picture below represents where that measurement is taken so that CV axles in the junkyard can be positively identified via something other than their year/engine/trim combination, in case theyíve been replaced at some point?

If the picture above is inaccurate, can someone provide a picture or drawing demonstrating where the measurement should be taken?

It seems that in order to be run on the passenger side, the 4 holes of the flange must be ovalized to fit the 4 mounting bolts. While Iím sure doing so is plenty strong, would it be possible to swap the cups w/flanges between 95mm and 100mm CV axles to avoid having to modify the 4 holes to make them fit, as these pics from ADD suggest?

Iíve also found that Milner, in the UK, offers upgraded polyurethane replacement CV boots. Since Iíll be rebuilding and rebooting any axles I pull out of a junkyard anyway, they seem like a good bit of insurance. Does anyone have any experience with them?

For posterityís sake, hereís a tidy tutorial outlining the removal, rebuilding/rebooting, and installation process for CV axles:

As always, thanks in advance, I appreciate any and all info and help.

Gen 1 Montero / 2.6 SWB/Raider 3 Core Radiator Questions
« on: February 20, 2019, 04:35:00 PM »
I'm looking for a radiator for my diesel swap, and wanting as much cooling as possible, have done a fair bit of research...

It seems the OEM 3 core radiators found on the 2.6 SWB/Raiders are the best bet. I'm fortunate to have an old school radiator shop a half mile from my house so will have whatever I end up with, along with my heater core, fully flushed/rodded out.

My questions surround the various configurations these 3 core radiators were offered in.

Were 3 cores mated solely to 2.6s or are they found with 3.0 SWB/Raiders as well?

When searching on there are 'Standard Duty' and 'Heavy Duty' versions listed for 5MTs, is the 3 core considered the 'Heavy Duty'?

I'm making a +/- 2 hour drive to pick up the CAD free MS 4.636 front diff I tracked down tomorrow and am considering an extra half hour drive to see if I can't grab the radiator and shroud out of this '86 SWB/2.6 if it's the unit I want and will justify the extra effort/time.

Were the 2.6 SWB/Raiders offered with autos or are they all 5MT?

Is there a difference in regard to their respective radiators, i.e. will the auto version be a 3 core and/or will it have an integrated transmission cooler?

The listing doesn't identify if it's an auto or manual and the VIN decoder doesn't offer a way to determine; although it's 6th digit being a '4' indicates it's a 'High' trim model, JA4FJ43E0GJ001752.

As always, thanks in advance, I appreciate any and all info and help.

I purchased a '97 MS to harvest the 5MT as well as the front suspension, brakes, steering, and a few other bits for my diesel D50 project.

Nearly everything else is up for grabs, exact specs can be seen here:

Pics & video of it starting/running/idling can be seen here:

The 3.0 SOHC 6G72 motor seems to run strong, I just drove it 60 miles home and aside from an exhaust leak seemed to do just fine; the previous owner claims to have replaced the timing belt and water pump last summer but I've no way of verifying it.

Known issues:

-Exhaust has a leak, not sure where yet.
-Windsheild is cracked
-Driver's rear leaf is broken
-Interior is rough
-Key is half broken in the ignition
-Exterior seems pretty straight but the paint is rough

The rear axle would be a great swap for a leaf spring Gen 1 or MM/D50 to gain the 9" diff and rear discs, its has 4.636 gears.

The motor would be great for a swap as it still has the full wiring harness/intake/etc.

The frame/chassis seems to be straight and has a clean, clear, and signed off WA title.

The truck is parked on the side of my house and I'm hoping to pull and part everything in the next week or two before having whatever's left hauled off for scrap. That said, I don't really want a carcass on jacks parked in the yard so depending on the part, I may need to hold off on pulling/shipping parts until it's convenient; i.e one fell swoop just before it goes to scrap.

PM with needs/wants/offers, buyers to cover PayPal fees and shipping. I'm about 100 miles north of Seattle in Bellingham, WA, 98225 if anyone wants to pick stuff up.

-Transmission/transfer case/mounts
-Drive shafts
-Front knuckles/hubs
-Steering pump/box/rack/idler/pitman/tie rods
-Brake MC/booster/proportioning valve/front calipers
-Spare tire carrier

General Discussion / Fumoto Oil Drain Valves?
« on: December 20, 2018, 06:11:42 PM »
Has anyone used a Fumoto Valve?

They're seemingly well regarded online, made in Japan, and strike me as really handy, especially since I've a brand new motor I'll likely be changing the oil in pretty often as it's broken in.

The sheer convenience, ability to drain the oil when it's still hot and without making a mess or contending with skid plates/etc, reducing the likelihood of cross threading or stripping the oil pan, and the ability to change the oil seemingly anywhere with a piece of tubing routed to a milk/water jug while on extended trips all seem like big pluses.

However, it's addition undoubtedly opens the door to more complications, risks, and problems than a normal drain bolt, with potentially massive, if not catastrophic, consequences if it fails and the engine has a large and sudden oil loss.

The 'SX' models, with the ability to orient the drain barb in any direction, look like the best option and would be pretty well protected from any damage on my '87 D50.

I haven't handled one myself so am not convinced the 'locking clip' they offer would be secure enough, although there are a lot of accounts online of people running them for 100s of 1000s of miles in pretty rough conditions without issue. I had the thought of drilling the release lever and securing it with a bit of safety wire as secondary insurance.

Anyone have any direct experience, good or bad, with these?

Mitsubishi Related / Sway Away vs Old Man Emu Torsion Bars
« on: August 07, 2018, 08:28:03 PM »
Does anyone have any direct experience with either or both of these?

I'm planning on swapping a diesel motor into my '87 D50 and likely a front bumper/winch eventually.

In addition to that extra weight, I would like to crank the torsion bars a bit, along with longer UCAs and possibly a small (1"-2") body lift, to fit 31"-32" A/T tires comfortably.

I'm planning on running HD Old Man Emu leafs in the rear, # CS023R -, to compensate for heavy loads/camper/hitch mounted dirtbike tray/etc

Old Man Emu # 303006 / $225 USD -

Sway Away / $389 USD -

Old Man Emu stuff has a solid reputation, and are 42% cheaper, but the Sway Away bars are US made and claim to "offer a 20-30% increase in spring rate over stock".

That 20-30% increase sounds desirable, but I wonder if it will result in the front suspension being too stiff?

Does anyone know if the Old Man Emu torsion bars are rated higher than the stock bars?

Mighty Max/Triton / '87 D50 4x4 Diesel Build
« on: July 26, 2018, 02:53:07 AM »
Iím getting ready to start on a project Iíve been planning and researching for quite some time and am hoping to glean some knowledge from several members on here with a bit more Mitsubishi experience.

My ultimate objective is to build a robust, simple, fairly easy to maintain/repair, minimal electronics, long lasting, and reliable truck capable of hauling decent loads, solid fuel economy, and long distance trips/possible overlanding expeditions. I donít do any crawling, but rather lots of winter driving in heavy snow/mountainous terrain, lots of tough dirt/gravel/logging roads, and long road trips.

Iíve an Ď87 Ram 50(D50) extra cab, 2.6 4G54, KM145 5 speed, 4x4, that is rust free, has good bones but a beat and tired engine. The general plan is to swap in a new D4BF (4D56t) mated to most of the running gear from a Ď97-í99 Montero Sport(MS):

-V5MT1-7 5 speed
-8Ē front end
-315mm front brakes
-9Ē locker rear end
-Rear disc brakes
-Rear leaf springs

Additionally Iím hoping to also add:

-Flat bed
-Front mount intercooler
-3 row radiator from a 2.6 Montero
-Dual speed electric fans
-Pyro and boost gauges
-Eliminate the EGT
-2.5Ē straight exhaust
-16Ē rims mated to 235/85r16 AT tires (to clear the larger 315mm front brakes)
-HD torsion bars
-HD rear leaf springs/shackles
-Aisin FHM-002 locking hubs
-Bilstein shocks
-New poly bushings/ball joints/etc throughout

Itís my understanding that the Ď97-í99 MS is essentially the 3rd gen of the MM/D50/Triton/L200 so most parts should be a fairly straight forward swap. Inevitably though, I know there will be several hitches and Iíve done lots and lots of reading/research but still have a few questionsÖ..

With the D4BF(4D56t) using the same mounts as the 4G54, its been a documented swap and shouldnít be too tricky. I plan on swapping over the oil pan and relocating the sump pick up and utilizing a Dakota Digital tach converter.

In most of the world the D4BF(4D56t) came mated to V5MT1 transmissions, does anyone have a part # for the bell housing needed to mate the two together?

Iím only +/- 35 miles from Vancouver, BC, home to many imported Delicas, Iím hoping to source one there. Itís my understanding the V5MT1s, and in particular the later, version 7, incarnations found on the Ď97-í99 MS is significantly more robust that the KM145. I plan on having the V5MT1-7 fully rebuilt before I swap it in.

Iím also aware that the later, +/- Ď94, MM 4x4/V6 came mated to an earlier version of the V5MT1s and an 8Ē front end. Can I use the transmission crossmember from that truck to fit my Ď87 D50/4G54 frame? What other parts should I grab to aid in this swap?

As far as gearing goes, Iíve read the Ď97-í99 MS came with either 4.22 or 4.63 gears?

My priority is fuel economy over offroad/crawling grunt so Iím sure which gear set would be best. Based on my research that V5MT1s are geared as:

First Gear Ratio: 3.918
Second Gear Ratio: 2.261
Third Gear Ratio: 1.395
Fourth Gear Ratio: 1.000
Fifth Gear Ratio: 0.829

Mated to 235/85r16 AT tires measuring +/-32Ē

Plugged into a calculator,, puts the RPMs, when cruising at 70 MPH, at:

2,830 w/4.63 gears


2,562 w/4.22 gears

Iíve read the D4BF likes to rev for a diesel, more so than the 4D56t, but Iím not certain where the optimal RPM:MPG threshold is; Iíve read its falls off sharply over 3k. Will freeway/roadtrip mileage suffer substantially w/the 4.63 gears vs the 4.22 gears?

Iím fairly confident the MS rear end should bolt up to my D50, what issues should I anticipate in fitting the front end?

Any benefit to using the MS steering box?

Will the MS rear leaf springs provide any lift, do they have a higher payload rating?

Iím hoping the HD torsion bars/UCA combo up front will accomodate 235/85r16 AT tires?

Will a set of shackles in the rear be necessary?

My first choice is to find a Ď97-í99 MS in the correct configuration w/a blown motor, bad body, etc to buy complete as a donor/parts car for $500-$1,000. If I canít however, what other parts should I be sure to grab if I end up piecemealing this via junk yards?

Sorry for the long post, hoping itís all been laid out clearlyÖ. Iíd appreciate any insights, advice, knowledge, etc. Iím still in the planning/parts sourcing stage and would prefer to side step any foreseeable issues in advance; Iíll likely start this project in earnest early this fall. Thanks.

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