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Messages - CharlieN

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Ahh good to see someone still visiting here, I will get some posting going here soon. Seems like Farcebook is killing the real places to be.

Any interest in a thread here?

General Discussion / Crash repair dimensions
« on: August 11, 2020, 06:01:04 AM »
Anyone have access to the crash repair books that have the dimensions of Gen 2 frame mounting points?

Gen 3 would be useful as well.
I have bought a book covering Gen 1 so I should have that info soon.
I intend to plot these in CAD so I can understand similarities to help plan future projects.

Mitsubishi Related / Re: 3rd gen locking hubs
« on: August 10, 2020, 10:04:34 AM »
I just renamed this thread since I now have something to show.

Far from done but it is going to work. Sorry about the color of metal over here, it sure is not as nice as over where you guys are.

Gen 2 Montero / Re: 1995 Montero SR Engine Removal
« on: August 07, 2020, 02:11:18 PM »
I would plan on 40+ hours to pull the engine, get the cams out of it, change the seals the reinstall the engine.
Do not get the cam timing wrong.

General Discussion / Spam related
« on: June 29, 2020, 01:09:57 PM »
These are numbers from a forum I attend often, Have you looked into Stop Forum Spam or Akismet?

77147 Spammers Denied Registration
73 Spammers Permanently Banned
73 Spammers submitted to StopForumSpam
60 Spammers submitted to Akismet
18 Spammy Posts Automatically Moderated

Gen 2 Montero / Re: Electric Door Lock Issues
« on: August 10, 2019, 12:05:24 PM »
Start with checking if the actuator in the rear (cargo) door is functioning properly. Sticky handle not returning down or other issues.
Mine is to the point the key works in the drivers door but I need to cycle it 3 times to unlock the other doors., they go up a little each time.
Seems the Pax door does not signal the control unit or something, been a long time since I tried it. The key will not open the other doors from the pax side.

My remote did not like being in my pocket when I seem to have gone swimming out of my canoe a decade ago so I can not offer allot on it. but,
When using your remote, watch all actuators. might be one door is draggy such that it does not signal the control unit properly. They all must freely unlock it's door or an error happens.

I have a plywood platform that works well, but you do need to be awake when you roll yourself out the side door, that is a long way down.
But the different thing I have done, screen windows,

These were made from hardware store parts.

Gen 2 Montero / Re: Gen2.5 EcuFlash Definition File
« on: May 17, 2018, 03:49:21 AM »
A Gen 3 ECU has transmission control incorporated in it and is not comparable with a Gen 2 which has a very simple external transmission control.

Gen 2 Montero / Re: JDM Gen 2 Profile - V20-V40
« on: May 16, 2018, 10:46:43 AM »
There are little details but you provided a very nice presentation. Being this is written for the States as time goes by there are more details on the engines but with the time cap involved it is not important yet.

I kind of wish I could just scrounge up many of the JDM parts we never saw so they could be retrofitted. Rear heater would be nice to have.

Gen 2 Montero / Re: JDM Gen 2 Profile - V20-V40
« on: May 16, 2018, 03:39:33 AM »
I like it but not to be too picky it needed to be edited before going to print. One example, a Gen1 shorty has a 92.5 wheelbase, a Gen2 shorty is 95.3, you used the shorter number for the Gen2.
The LWB has a similar difference between generations.
It might only be me who sees these things so maybe I should stay out.

Bit late but up here in Vermont the spare tire locks itself on now that magnesium chloride is being used to deice roads. No one can get their spare tires off. Maybe the thieves know how too.

Gen 2 Montero / Re: 95 3.5 Timing Belt Job Parts List?
« on: May 12, 2018, 03:08:48 AM »
As you get around to actually doing this job, one word of caution. When you get down to removing the crank pulley, be very careful since the pulley is tight in the timing pulley behind it.
The outer pulley itself is not mounted to the crankshaft, it locates on the front of the timing pulley and is clocked with a dowel pin that commonly gets destroyed by those not used to this task.
When the engine is at TDC the 3 blades of the crank sensor will interfere with the hall sender such that if the timing pulley slides forward it will destroy the sensor.
You either need to make sure the main crank pulley comes off without moving the timing pulley or turn the motor such that the timing blades are out of the sensor.

I go about this by leaving the crank bolt in place but backed off a number of turns then with a soft hammer tap sideways on the crank pulley rocking it so it releases slowly and controllably.

Paying attention when removing the crank pulley will reduce the need to rush out for another hundred in parts.

After that the rest of the job is a straight forward PIA.
The passenger side cams are very hard to hold in timing such that the plastic timing tools marketed for the 3000GT are very handy.

The small water hose from the front of the heads have been mentioned already. How are your valve cover gaskets?

This can be a 20+ Hr job so allow the time for it.

If you have a bent lower arm the truck will drive like poo.
The rack boots are not real bad to change especially if you are either replacing the outer tie rods or need to pull them off the rack during service. As long as the two mounting ears are intact on the left side of the rack it may well have no damage to it.
You do want to verify that the inner tie rods need a firm hand to move them in their inner pivot. If they fall under their own weight I would consider replacing the inners.

Did you actually bend the rack or just the tie rod?
If the rack is bent it will not travel smoothly through full stroke. If it travels then is this just the outer end which swaps out easy enough. The two mounting tabs on the driver side will generally break before the rack bends, but not always.
I just bought a used rack for a project from a salvage yard and other than one "not available in country" hydraulic tube the rack is fine.
The damaged tube looks to have been crushed either by a hammer blow or a tool.

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