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Messages - henry510

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Mitsubishi Related / Re: Setting up the ADD Adjustable Panhard Bar
« on: March 02, 2019, 12:29:27 PM »
Anyone  every make a video or pics for setting the adjustable panhard? Finally got mine installed and new siberian trailing arm bushings and want to make sure I've got it correct!

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Gen 2 Montero / Re: Cracked Exhaust Manifold (Left)- Headers?
« on: July 30, 2018, 07:40:57 AM »
Thanks @kalieracer!

I found these for the Hurricanes http://www.hurricane.com.au/hurricane/products.php?product=1&service=5&make=22&model=121&page=1  Which looks like will work with my 97 SR 3.5

Do you have any experience with them, or know someone who has?

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Gen 2 Montero / Cracked Exhaust Manifold (Left)- Headers?
« on: July 12, 2018, 06:42:42 AM »
Hi All,

I've unfortunately discovered a small crack in the driver side exhaust manifold of my 97 SR 3.5L (245K). I thought it was just a bad gasket but alas- it is not so. It's small enough that the noise goes away once the car is warm.

I've got a new OEM on order but started to wonder, are there any options folks know of for improvement- eg headers?

It's a super pain to get at all this- but if I'm going to go there and can improve performance a bit...

Thanks for any insight or advice.

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Gen 2 Montero / Re: What to do about an alignment that won't hold?
« on: July 09, 2018, 09:38:29 AM »
Thanks for the advice on the preload. I just did my bearings myself and unfortunately did it by feel since I don't have the tool!  :-\ I'll try get hold of a tool and check it out. The pitman was done a few years back so maybe time to give that another looksee.

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Gen 2 Montero / Re: What to do about an alignment that won't hold?
« on: July 06, 2018, 10:57:53 AM »
No collisions (knock wood-  I'm the original owner so that is for sure. According to the tire shop readout- caster reads in spec (2.8L and 2.3R)

I did a new OEM idler arm early this year. The pitman arm was done a few years back.

I've not messed with the steering box ever- though now that you mention it, I get the sense of a little clunk in the steering wheel when going over something just right. It's not something I can reproduce but more something I think is there.

I live in CA so the roads are crap- especially in my town- but my wife's Civic holds alignment for 5 years at a time on the same roads! Yes, I drive a bit off the beaten path but it's really more dirt road than full on offroad. I'm certainly not beating on it.


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Gen 2 Montero / Re: What to do about an alignment that won't hold?
« on: July 06, 2018, 10:35:29 AM »
Yes- I'm already on the alignment shop frequent flyer program!  :)

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Gen 2 Montero / What to do about an alignment that won't hold?
« on: July 06, 2018, 09:53:43 AM »
Just checking to see if anyone has experience or advice on front alignment that won't hold (usually toe in) for more than 3k- and it isn't due to getting big air or big bumps offroad! I just installed 5 new KO2's and want to protect the investment.

It's a 97 Montero SR with 244K.

I've just replaced all bearings, sway bar end links front and rear (Moog), sway bar bushings front and rear (Moog), all four shocks with 5100 Bils, upper and lower control arm bushings with siberian and new OEM ball joints- both because it's time and to see if that will help.

Outer tie rod ends still seem solid- and were replaced with OEM ~30K ago.

Next up are new torsion rods and trailing arm bushings and an adjustable panhard.

I can't think of anything else but any advice would be appreciated. Again brand new tires all around so don't want to trash them!

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I am wondering what the repaired harmonic balancer looks like in operation?

I had a crank bolt break off at highway speed and am concerned the crank may have bent.

Here is a video of the new (OEM) balancer at idle. It has a noticeable wobble but perhaps not as pronounced as the video you posted. Is this motion acceptable or normal?

(normal) https://drive.google.com/file/d/1hA_-UKn2z_KS0-cqQTP5nbwb4uhSOZr2/view?usp=sharing

(slow motion) https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vnPPvsrU_DvEBqLgbDtx3Grva--cK_zQ/view?usp=sharing

Any comment on the above videos would be appreciated or even better post a video of a 'normal' balancer?

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Here's one they claim is a 03-43LE & V4A51 wich is not correct in any way HOWEVER in the photos the I'D tag clearly shows it is an AW30-43LE. Contact and double check it's the same as the picture and is in fact new OEM not reman.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F182402631580

The seller confirms it is new. However the part number doesn't match what Mitsubishi says is correct for a 97 SR. Mitsubishi parts dept says it's MR305361 for the 97 SR. (They want $4,775 in case someone is curious)

I wonder if this MR 399559 is really the same transmission with a different part number because it's for the Sport model.

Any ideas how to confirm it is truly compatible?

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Awesome! Thanks @Toasty! So the part number I'm looking for is MR 399559. I didn't realize it was the same transmission for the Montero Sport.

If it's confirmed as new I'll buy it - especially nice since they are in So Cal so shipping should be relatively quick to Oakland.

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Weird, those transmissions are used in a lot of different cars so shops should have no problem rebuilding them. I run Diamond SP-3 (AKA Aisin SP-3) in mine (always have), hope you didn't pay too much for the rebuild. New AW3's pop up on eBay from time to time for around $700

Can you confirm the AW3 designation I should be searching for? Iíve searched and found nothing for AW3 Aisin. I do see a bunch about AW4 especially in regards to the 40-43LE if thatís the correct version for the montero. The plate inside my engine compartment says transaxle is V4AW3 4272 but that gets nothing when I google it.

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Yeah - it was a $1500 adventure. Iíve been watching eBay with no result.

Iím going to flush and replace the fluid first since they used a synthetic and see if that resolves.

Otherwise I guess another $1500 with another shop- unless someone can point me to a good source. Iím in the SF Bay Area.

Everything else on the car is good otherwise and again it drives fine.

13
What year and model is your car?

Woops!- Important to note this is a 97 SR with 240K. Engine was rebuilt at 195K.

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1997 SR- After fully rebuilding the tranny (don't ask me why) the car starting throwing intermittent p1750 errors (which points to solenoid trouble). After several attempts to remedy- including switching out the valve body, solenoid packs, replacing TCU and ECU they gave up and refunded me. I've attached the part list from their paperwork.

The transmission wires are all ohming ok, wiring harness is clean and harness pin tensions are confirmed good.

The car drives perfect, no slips or shift symptoms. After reseting the p1750 error it can take a few hundred miles to return. The TCU also shows trouble codes 54 and 49. I've got a couple captures of the error and freeze frames with my bluetooth dongle (attached).

Here is the skinny I got from Mistsubishi. And I quote:

"As far as the Montero, From the Transmission end I would worry about the torque converter clutch circuit apply pressure which comes down to sealing rings and the valve body and the torque converter, There is a line pressure port for pressure testing, but thatís about it. The 4th gear code may be setting due to the lockup slipping. The solenoid code in the MFI may be setting due to failsafe if the trans did go into failsafe.

The trans fluid is Dexron 2 originally, SP3 is too slick. Dexron 3 is probably the closest that can be used.
 
The valve body has a common ground to the 3 solenoids

I would check the resistance from the TCM on each solenoid circuit. (the TCM will measure the voltage spike on deactivation to judge internal shorting of the solenoids.

Rebuilders sometimes use the clutches that fit but have the wrong friction coefficient. This will cause shift feel complaints.

My initial hunch is to focus on the code 49 in the TCM for the Torque converter clutch. On the scan tool item 23 and 31

(engine rpm and input speed sensor can be monitored to see if thet match somewhat (within around 50 rpm but 0 is perfect)"

I'm not a gear head- but what all this leads me to try:

1) flush and replace the fluid to ensure it's the right one and not causing slippage
2) conduct another pressure test (did this before with no problems)
3) check engine RPM and input speed sensor for alignment
4) maybe it's a bad torque converter clutch (in other words rebuild it again?)

I'm hoping to get some advice on where to go from here. Drop this transmission and start again with a different rebuilt? Rebuild it again with someone else and hope for a better result? Again- it drives fine. No symptoms other than the pesky check engine light.

I even did a stall test per the FSM and didn't see any problems.

Any advice on sources or remedies are greatly appreciated!

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