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Messages - GrantCee

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1
Mitsubishi Related / Re: Gen1 shock advice?
« on: September 03, 2019, 07:42:32 PM »
Would you happen to have that part number for the fronts? Thanks!

I've been scratching my head why they would only list part numbers for the rears.

Sorry to be so very late getting back to this thread...I hope this is still helpful!

Bilstein part # is B6 4600 24-013369

Bilstein lists them for '88 to '90 Monteros, but not for the earlier models - even though they use the same part from Mitsubishi! Just one of those little things Monty owners need to know that the companies themselves don't.

2
Gen 1 Montero / Re: Lower ball joints on a SWB
« on: April 06, 2019, 03:19:37 PM »
Once you have unbloted the lower ball joint bolts and separated the knuckle from the LCA and UCA, the CV slides out of the hub. Now, you can leave in place or pull.

Basically, I'm pulling the knuckle out, correct? Which means I also have to separate the tie rod as well.

That being the case, on a 32-y/o vehicle with 150k on the clock, I think I might as well remove the LCA and replace those bushings while I'm there. UBJ, tie rod end can both be done easily without removing the knuckle (should they ever need it.)

Which brings up a question: LCA bushings ó other than OEM, any recommendations? I've seen Moog & AC Delco so far...

3
Gen 1 Montero / Re: Lower ball joints on a SWB
« on: April 06, 2019, 10:13:25 AM »
CV must come out, sir

I was afraid you were going to say that. Now I have to order boot clamp (bands)...or do I? Do I need to disassemble the shaft, or can I just pull the shaft out of the hub (after removing the circlip?)

4
Gen 1 Montero / Re: Lower ball joints on a SWB
« on: April 04, 2019, 02:36:55 PM »
Lower balljoints are bolt on, very easy and no removal of the torsion bar is needed nor for the upper. they support most of the weight and go bad quickly, highly recommend not cheaping out on the lowers. OEM then 555's and the rest are a crap shoot. Moog gives you whatever they bought from anyone else, sometimes good sometimes bad. Uppers are pressed in and also not bad to do, just be sure to dig the snap rings out before pressing.

Okay, what's the trick to getting these things out? Getting them loose is no problem, but getting them out of the knuckle is!

The spindle won't allow me to pull the ball joint up far enough to clear; the top of the dome on the joint hits the spindle cover before the threaded end of the joint clears the hole in the knuckle. Near as I can tell, the only solution is to take out the (outer) driveshaft. The FSM doesn't mention any of that ó they just show the ball joint magically out of the knuckle and being tested!

What am I missing?

5
Gen 2 Montero / Re: Let's do the flashing front lights thing.
« on: March 27, 2019, 02:28:54 PM »
think of it like a quick test of whether or not you should own a quarter century old 4x4 - if this is too much for you, sell it. It only gets harder from here.

Truth.

This should be required reading for everyone who wants to buy a used Montero, regardless of model.

6
Gen 1 Montero / Re: Lower ball joints on a SWB
« on: March 22, 2019, 01:12:38 PM »
Good to know! I was actually thinking of replacing the uppers at the same time, but I won't bother.

How long do the lower arm bushings last?

7
Gen 1 Montero / Lower ball joints on a SWB
« on: March 20, 2019, 03:46:32 PM »
Who has replaced the lower ball joints on a 4-cyl Gen1?

My '87 SWB suspension is squeaking. On inspection, it looks like the grease boot on the passenger side lower ball joint got torn somewhere along the line, and all of the grease inside has solidified.  The joint is still, surprisingly, tight, but I know it's just a matter of time now.

Two questions:

1) Other than OEM, is there a quality ball joint you can recommend? I'm looking at the Beck/Arnley ball joints from RockAuto, but I've heard good things about Moog as well.

2) Is it really necessary to remove the torsion bar just to replace the ball joint? The FSM says I need to, but I'd rather not if I don't have to. Anything to make the job a little easier!

(I do have a ball joint press with adaptors.)

8
Mitsubishi Related / Re: Question about alternator upgrade
« on: March 19, 2019, 03:22:57 PM »
I've decided on a 4-gauge charging wire going through a 60amp ANL (slow-blow) fuse block (Blue Sea). In addition, I'm going to a "star ground" topology with 3 separate 4-gauge grounds from the battery (to body, to frame, and to engine). I'm also going to upgrade all existing grounds over the next year.

9
Mitsubishi Related / Question about alternator upgrade
« on: March 18, 2019, 03:53:06 PM »
Iím preparing to drop in a Starion 75-amp alternator in place of the 50-amp unit in my í87 4-cyl. However, Iíve been looking at the charging wire running from the alternator, and itís a pitiful thing; I havenít measured the conductor to be sure, but it looks like no more than a 10-gauge wire.

Looking at wiring charts, it tells me that a 5-foot run (which is about what it is from the alt to the battery) at 75-amps requires a 4-gauge wire. Thatís a big difference from whatís in there!

Should I upgrade that stock wire before putting the new alternator in?

10
Mitsubishi Related / Re: Gen1 shock advice?
« on: March 18, 2019, 03:45:28 PM »
I have Tokico Trekmasters on mine, can't report on longevity but i liked them. They were really inexpensive too.

Looks like those are hard to find now; I'm told Tokico is out of the aftermarket business and only sells OEM.

In the meantime, I found the part number for the Bilstein 4600 fronts (for some reason Bilstein thinks they only fit 88-90) so that's the direction I'm going.

Next month, though; I've bought enough parts this month!

11
Gen 2 Montero / Re: No oil pressure after new oil pump
« on: March 18, 2019, 03:42:16 PM »
Hope that solves the problem!

I pay strict attention to the bolt placement in the FSM. Mitsubishi was pretty specific about bolt lengths and where they go.

12
Mitsubishi Related / Gen1 shock advice?
« on: March 13, 2019, 01:32:51 PM »
Itís getting time to replace the shocks on my í87 SWB (2.6l w/5spd). Like most rigs, it spends 80% of its time on pavement, the rest of it on gravel, unmaintained, and ďhistoricĒ roads. I donít rock crawl or mud at all. Many of the roads I travel are heavily rutted or washboarded. (Itís the washboard that gives that short wheelbase a rough time!)

Of course everyone suggests KYB Gas-A-Just, but Iíve heard that theyíre on the stiff side. I donít want a firmer ride if that means itís going to be rough or "walk" sideways on the washboard.

Others suggest the Bilstein 4600, but they only make them for the rear (no front models available according to the Bilstein website.) I need front and rear.

Any suggestions (or more feedback on the KYB?)

13
Other Tech / Re: Single DIN CB radio
« on: March 11, 2019, 03:50:12 PM »
This was the OE piece in my Raider, had been the AM/FM radio and a tray.

Mine had the same faceplate, holding the AM/FM radio and the separate cassette deck (an option in '87.)

14
Gen 1 Montero / Re: Re-Installing 5sp transmission
« on: February 10, 2019, 04:16:09 PM »
Update: thanks for the tip, that did the trick! (Well, once I remembered that the transmission needed to be oriented on an angle to match the now downward-pointing flywheel, anyhow!)

Using your trick, the starter hump in the bellhousing had no problem clearing and the tranny was cinch to put in.

Now, "the rest of the story": I had the KM145 transmission rebuilt this summer, and a few weeks ago the transmission locked up at a stop. I pulled the transmission, took it back to the shop, and invoked the warranty. When I reinstalled the transmission the first time, the input shaft was pristine ó not a mark on it. When I pulled it out this time, though, there was a groove warn in the input shaft where the pilot bearing rides. The transmission place said that the pilot bearing had bound up the input shaft, and if the tranny was in 4th gear and the clutch pushed without downshifting, the 4th gear wouldn't disengage. Sounds reasonable, especially since I saw the damage before taking it back to them.

This time, instead of trusting the cheap $4 bearing that came with the Sachs clutch kit (supposedly a quality part), I ordered up a Nachi (which I'm told is OEM) bearing and installed that before reinstalling the tranny.

I hope this is the last time I have to pull that thing for a long, long time!

15
Gen 1 Montero / Re-Installing 5sp transmission
« on: January 24, 2019, 12:57:04 PM »
Tips, please, for installing the 5-speed transmission in a Gen1 SWB with 2.6 engine.

The tranny has to be rotated counter-clockwise so the starter bulge in the bellhousing will clear the firewall. What's the easiest way to make that happen without damaging the clutch or the input shaft?

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