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Messages - agrabau

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Gen 2 Montero / Re: Super Select Lights and RPM Gauge
« on: November 16, 2018, 10:54:12 AM »
Will do! This would be so nice if it were the prob.

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Gen 2 Montero / Re: Super Select Lights and RPM Gauge
« on: November 16, 2018, 09:37:23 AM »
Hey guys, rather than make a new thread I thought I'd ask here. All of my super select lights are off after blasting down a bumpy road. They flickered out. Do you think it's the cluster or something in the harness by the switches? 4wd still works as normal. The locking rear diff light also does not work. This, on a 1995 SR>


Thanks

Alex

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Yeah let me know if you have any questions.  Andrew- once I had to install the ball it all made sense insofar as pin placement.

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Thanks DR

This is one link I referenced.

http://forum.expeditionportal.com/threads/134943-Mitsubishi-Montero-Gen-2-5-Transfer-Case-Shift-Lever-Replacement

The place I bought the ball from is here. They offer an aftermarket one as well but I opted for OEM this round.

P/N MR701605

http://stores.ebay.com/partslunacy/

-Alex

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Recently I was unable to shift my truck into 2wd effectively. The shifter felt a bit like churning butter. Something was wrong and I had never any occasion to investigate how the shifter worked. I figured something was loose. I also figured I'd have to take the center console apart to figure it out. (which I did) Along the way I ran into a few issues that I had never seen mentioned online so I thought I could make a thread here to share what I learned. I was able to find a new shifter ball online (red color) and it's an OE Mitsu part. It was just over 20 bucks. The entire shifter assembly that people talk about replacing as a whole is about 200-300 depending on who you call. Replacing just the ball seemed like a great idea.

Let's start from the top and I'll skip some details because the shifter removal is covered well on other forums and in other posts. Not mentioned was to mark the 3 bolt flange with a forward facing arrow, also mark the 4-hole upper plate with a forward facing arrow. It might help you later. NOTE: Things in my photos are mirrored. My car is RHD. This makes things confusing so if you're trying to check if you did things right.. you might want to check another person's photos.

1- remove center console- the whole thing has to come out. Remove the shifter knobs first. There's a trim piece that comes off the Auto shifter to reveal a second screw to take it off. The 4x4 shift knob unscrews but you might want to hold the shift shaft while unscrewing it. It's on tight. Remember what screws went where- bag them.

2) I went about this the wrong way by removing the 3 nuts holding the shifter to the transfer case. I should have done what everyone said and removed the 4 just beyond that.

https://goo.gl/photos/H7p9TCT7RLF8Fo2i7

In the photo you can see the remnants of the old ball.

3) actually remove the 4 bolts this time to get the upper cover off. The front and rear pairs are different lengths so remember which went where.

https://goo.gl/photos/qwyqkt8t6rj1VKyt8

Clean out the old ball material. Check that your shift forks are properly aligned (per someone else's thread) for later. If you were in 2wd when you took it apart you should be fine.

4) This is where things got weird for me. This pin shown in the pic below was offset. Having never taken this apart before I didn't know if this was the way it's supposed to be. There was NO information online about this so I had to investigate. Later I found out that to install the new red ball the pin has to come out anyway.

https://goo.gl/photos/gnWNbWfKh8Czq2QM7

To get beyond this point you'll need to tear down the shifter assembly a bit further. Start with the small boot. Cut the safety wire that seals it. Slide the boot out from under the the flange with 3 holes in it so you can pull it inside-out and out of your way. Once that's up and out of the way you'll see a C clip holding the sprung cup in place. Pop that clip off and put it aside for now. Now you're ready to press the pin out.

 You'll need an arbor press for this part. I used a hydraulic press but it's in there pretty well. Be careful with your eyes.  The best way to do this is to set up two aluminum blocks, one on the rectangle at the end of the shifter arm and another on the arm of the shifter too, just above the cup. The little tin cup can rattle around freely while you press the pin out. Use a bolt or something to get it through. I used an M6 socket head cap screw.

https://goo.gl/photos/MK7rpDKZFiPdFkHE6

The photo above shows the little boot pulled out from under the flange and the cup around the pin that you need to press out. The C clip to release the spring tension on the cup is hidden under the boot in the photo. It's easy to get off.

Next, reassembly. Get your red ball or white ball or whatever ball you have and put it in the cup, align the bore that goes through the red ball with the hole in the shifter that you revealed by taking the pin out and then carefully re install the pin through the ball and then through the shifter, back through the other side of the ball, completely securing it. (the pin passes through the ball to hold it in place) I used a hammer to give it a starter tap, then the press)

Once the pin is pressed in (using those aluminum blocks I mentioned before again) pack some grease in under the cup and around the ball, replace your C clip with a little hammer, slide the small boot back down over the spring and cup and then under the 3 hole flange. Clean the flange from errant grease and put some gasket maker on it while bolting it back to the larger upper plate. Re safety wire the top of the boot to the shifter arm.

Check that you have everything in straight and that you have full travel.

https://goo.gl/photos/gKwhsk2sWQc3s5jdA

The little notch on the shifter arm should line up with that steel rectangle on the shifter plate. The US plate is just mirrored. If you line the notch with the rectangle, you've built it correctly.

I hope this helps someone.





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