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Messages - kalieracer

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Gen 3 Montero / 2003-2006 3.8 Timing belt and heavy maintenance list
« on: September 05, 2018, 09:06:08 AM »
2003-2006 3.8 Timing belt and heavy maintenance list. Just a reminder for everyone 100k /60k or 5 years for the first belt depending on where you live and what year truck you have and then 60k or 5 years.. Does not matter if you went 20k in the 5 years do the timing belt service the rubber cracks and dries out. Coolant in most cases is on a shorter cycle. Plugs are 90-100k

Jamie Poulos thanks for going through and cross referencing a good chunk of the part numbers.  Download the Excel or attached jpg

All the info you need to upgrade your front brakes for the Gen 2 trucks - Please read the notes for 92-96 trucks.

Because the forum does not allow uploading of excel files a JPG has been attached and the excel can be downloaded via google drive

Gen 2 Montero / Gen 2 3.5 SOHC Timing belt parts list + Heavy Service info
« on: September 04, 2018, 09:13:10 PM »
So the FB pages get this question 2-3 times a week.

Here is list of the things you should be replacing when doing a Tbelt job to bring you truck up current and make the next while as trouble free as possible. Including all the stuff that is neglected and overlooked or will come back to bit you later. 60k or 5 years

Since the forum does not make is easy to insert an excel sheet -  here is link to download it and JPG with all the part numbers and info

Mitsubishi Related / Re: Off-road Overheating Issues
« on: August 30, 2018, 09:54:46 PM »

I noticed when I first got my rig, it would hover around 198* every day. (measured via scangauge)

However recently, it tends to sit at 202*, but it does creep up to 209 climbing grades, and at one point it hit 240* while climbing up white mountain in big bear.

I haven't touched anything, but I suspect me playing in mud got a lot of crud stuck between the fins of my radiator. I'm hoping a nice chemical flush and rodding the radiator will help me out.

The one for the 99 I got was mexico

FYI I just bought a hayden fan clutch for my 94 SR and it is made in USA

Thermostat Options

NTC WV64MC-68SV - 68c (155f) - Racing thermostat with wax valve - Gradual opening and low hunting (Made for Paj Evo Dakar trucks) - Do not use this in a stock truck unless you live in a place that is hot as heck all the time or have high hp race truck.

AISIN THM010 - 76.5c (170F) (NTC rebox with Tama label)
1305A237, MD174234, MD997608, MD997679

AISIN THM011 - 82c (180F) ( NTC rebox with Tama label) -
1305A191, 212001LA1A, 21200AD201, MD174233, MD194988, MD997644 (Also use for 3.8 conversions)

AISIN THM012 - 88C (190) (NTC rebox with Tama lable)
1305A239, MD350415, MD351861

97-2002 Montero - Fan clutch MD334660
94-95 Montero SR 3.5 - Fan clutch MD303502

NPW - Japanese made
Shimahide - Japanese made
Hayden - Mexico
GMB - China

Fan - 94-96 Montero SR - also fits many older diesel MD050475
Fan 97-2000- Montero and 97-2004 sports. (3.0 / 3.5 ) including Paj Evo use the same fan blade) MD334659

Radiator -MB890951 - 94-2000 3.5 including Paj Evo - 677 wholesale cost
Drop in US or AU made High performance unit 52mm 14FPI  or 55mm Core . 16FPI - 650 - 1600 depending on mfg and cooling requirements. Cores can be optimized for crawling or running flat out or in between.

Info about Brass Copper Vs Alloy

* Extreme cooling Denso F1 cores -
What makes it special? Essentially the tube spacing of the car is very small, only 0.25" center on center vs 0.4" So there are more tubes running across which gives more surface area for the water. Additionally, the fin spacing is very high at 21 Fins per Inch vs 14-18 for other solutions. This gives more surface area for the air to transfer heat. Here's the last bit that will blow your mind. It is 27mm thick.

How can that possibly work? Simple. Specific heat of water is 4.2 times higher than air. That means it takes 4.2 times more energy to heat a qty of water 1 degree than air.

When the cooler outside air hits the radiator, the air heats up 4.2 times the rate the water cools down. Thus the outside face of the radiator does alot of cooling but halfway through the radiator, the air is much hotter but the water only a little cooler. So the back half of the radiator doesn't do much since cooling is also a function of delta between the water and air temps. As the radiator experts told me, the first 1/3 of the radiator does 2/3s of the cooling.

Make sure yours is there and not damaged.

Shroud - MB890979 94-2000 3.5
Shroud lower -MR126903

Radiator cap MB660735 - ,9bar - Use Futaba or Senkei who are the oem for these.
1.1 /1.3 can be used also if you have a larger alloy radiator.

Correct coolants -

Info on coolants - Using the wrong type will damage the lead solder on the brass copper radiator and heater core, as well as not provide the correct metal protection. Mixing different kinds may result in gel forming in the system.

Pentofrost A2
OEM Brand Green Coolant
Mistubishi Green Coolant
*waterless coolants but require change over and prep fluid

Surfactants - Make sure the one you choose works with your coolant and distilled water

Water wetter
lucas super coolant
bg super cool
Royal Purple Ice
Chemical Descaling agents (chelating agent) - Super important that you follow all instructions and use distilled water and the block drains when using these or you will mess things up. They work and many mfgs have them including ford and chevy, but generally only for the service dept.

What the hell are these ...
Main ingredient in themocure Diammonium

Mercedes-Benz Citric Acid Cooling System Flush - 000989102511
Evapo-Rustฎ THERMOCURE - TC001
Motor Medic  Super Heavy Duty Radiator Cleaner - C2232
Irontite Thoro-Flush
Liquid Intelligence 239 Engine Cooling System Cleaning Kit

Fan Modification
Spal 12inch pusher fan mod - Currently working on an adapter to fit in the stock housing - 12-20 amp load
Derale 12 pusher fan mod - Need to cut stock fan housing and rivet fan in place - 20-30 amp load

Mitsubishi Related / Re: Off-road Overheating Issues
« on: August 26, 2018, 10:05:52 PM »
Tested one of prototype radiators, seeing about 179-181 as normal temps and running the truck up a steep grade highway for 3-4 miles at wot  saw about 192f. 33's with 4.27 gears and AC on with busted AC fan.

  I have a stock cooling system and just completed the Sierra Challenge without overheating. I also watched my temps via scangauge, it got up to 220 degrees on one long crawl but we were running the A/C. For reference 220 on the needle gauge is still in the same spot as normal operating temp. I think 225-230 is where it starts to climb. My truck typically cycles 195-205 degrees as the thermostat does its thing, if i demand more from it I'll see 205-215 the needle never moves. Having a digital temp gauge helps monitor things better.

Gen 2 Montero / Re: 3.5 SOHC (Gen 2.5) Timing Belt Parts List
« on: August 12, 2018, 09:21:01 PM »
What was the part number?

I recently (past three weeks) bought an OEM fan blade from Rock Auto. Figured there wouldn't be too many chances to get one in the future. I think it was $25.

John B.

Mitsubishi Related / Re: Bearing Cross reference Thread
« on: August 07, 2018, 09:24:07 AM »

I was the parts manager for a medical vacuum and air company for a while. Vacuum pumps are a weird animal with many coming from Italy and Germany. Anyways, long story short,  I found a lot of work arounds for sourcing hard to find or exorbitantly OEM priced bearings and seals, by sizing them and locating the equivalent, from specialized bearing suppliers which are usually same brand as OEM. Just need the ID (inside diameter) OD (Outside diameter) and width  measurements. digital calipers usually work pretty good and if there's a brand and trade number that's usually etched on to the side of the oem bearing being replaced, that helps verify the measurements. SKF/Koyo etc pretty much use very similar number sequences.

We should spec out all Gen differential bearings, T case bearings, and any other hard to find or expensive ones we can think of and deposit the information here. If anyone has any lying around please share and take photos of any makings. I may have some Gen 1 front diff bearings somewhere in an ARB box, I'll try to start it off soon.

This could save some cash for those of us installing lockers, gears, T-case reduction sets, etc.

Gen 2 Montero / Re: 3.5 SOHC (Gen 2.5) Timing Belt Parts List
« on: August 07, 2018, 09:22:13 AM »
Too bad they don't make / sell the fan clutches / blades / oil pumps for these trucks anymore.

i've been in contact with Aisin recently, I'd like to retail their stuff instead of passing it through the dealer and taking that hit, as we've been doing. That could change the way we keep these trucks on the road, but the convo has just been started recently. They seem open to it.

Mitsubishi Related / Re: Off-road Overheating Issues
« on: July 31, 2018, 07:54:01 AM »
Only option here is to get a proper mfg to make replacements. I have been working on this project for the last year and we are setting up a group buy for US made Alloy units.

Shovel - This is one I am torn over.  It is my fit, and seems like it is all metal with copper/brass internals.  I can get one shipped for around $200 and thinking of going this route but on the Jeep/Toyota forums the general consensus is the build quality is not up to par and it will develop cracks under pressure.  I have literally been researching every single option out there and don't have an answer.  There is a company out of AZ called Performance Radiator, their's looks like it could be a good choice too.

**Edit - Just ordered CSF 3050 from CarID for $211.  Hopefully I get a good one.

Gen 2 Montero / Re: Cracked Exhaust Manifold (Left)- Headers?
« on: July 30, 2018, 12:11:12 PM »
I went with the the Redback / Wild cat over the Hurricane only because they would allow slightly easier install and modding if I wanted to run a larger pipe out of them. Hurricanes are what is sold by RPW for their builds in AU. The specs are the same for both companies when it comes to the pipe size what is different is that one is longer vs short header. Short headers give more low end vs mid to high. Hurricanes have larger outlet at the y collector, but for my application that does not matter as it was modified to go 3 inch vs 2.5. You will also need to weld in an EGR bung no matter what set you get. No biggie but putting it out there.

US made radiator group buy for Spring 2019.
Group buy is now open
*There is min 5 of each style needed to meet the mfg min for pricing. *
*This is for Gen 1 V6 radiators and Gen 2 3.5 Radiators. - *

Gen 2 3.5L Radiator -

Radiator spec – 2.25inch 2 row of 1inch tubes alloy core – 380000 BTU/H hour rating
Upgraded Plate transmission cooler,
3/8 NTP bung on top,
3/8 NTP bung on the bottom
ฝ NTP anode bung.
Offset extended mount to allow trucks to drill new mounting holes.
This is a drop in radiator.
565 each – Please include 18.25 to cover paypal fees, do not send payment as F&F
Gen 1 V6 Radiator
Radiator spec – 1.5in 1 Row of 1.25 tube alloy core – 285,000 BTU/H hour rating
Upgraded Plate transcooler,
3/8 NTP bung on top,
3/8 NTP bung on the bottom
ฝ NTP anode bung. Offset extended mount to allow trucks to drill new mounting holes.
This is a drop in radiator.
5-10 units cost 455 to mfg – Please include 15.06 to cover paypal fees, do not send payment as F&F

Payment can be sent to - Shipping will charges will be provided once the GB is closed and I send in the order to the MFG.
Shipping will run around 42- 65 based on the last run in the lower 48.
MFG generally takes about 4-8 weeks from the placement of order. Last batch they shipped at 7 weeks.

Gen 2 3.5 $565 – Please include 18.25 to cover paypal fees, do not send payment as F&F
Gen 1 3.0 $455 – Please include 15.06 to cover paypal fees, do not send payment as F&F

Gen 2 Montero / High preformance Gen 2 3.5 radiators
« on: July 29, 2018, 09:16:01 PM »

Calling all Gen 2 3.5l owners. We are about ready for the manufacture of upgraded radiators. I should preface this post is not for sale ad and I have already spoken to many of top custom/racing radiator mfgs about this including those in AU.

Please keep in mind that a new Denso unit is over 700 at the dealer (limited to stock on hand as it is out of production) and many of the after market Brass copper radiators are either out of production or sub par in the cooling dept. That will only leave you with cheap AL / Plastic units / Rebuilt stock units (assuming you can have yours done or find one to rebuild) or custom one offs which will cost you 1000-1500 from most any good mfg in the US.

As it sits the US MFG will need to do radiators in batches of 5-10 to make it worth while and affordable. US units include an upgraded in tank trans cooler (12 inch plate with AN fittings (Brass bar fittings included for use with stock hoses), NTP bung on the hot side. Extended brackets for both the shroud and mounts (for you body lift guys) and those looking to make a custom shroud. Internal baffle for better cooling. Also every part and material is US made. Will support 500HP. Unit is furnace brazed and tig welded. Retains stock cooling fan

If you are interested please check out the MMUSA Garage sale page or the for Sale section here

Gen 2 Montero / Re: Cracked Exhaust Manifold (Left)- Headers?
« on: July 29, 2018, 09:13:39 PM »
Redbacks / Hurricane are good to go. They will need a slight mod to 1 runner on the lhd side. Fed trucks only. CA emissions will require the cats removed and 02 moved / ecu modded.

Hi All,

I've unfortunately discovered a small crack in the driver side exhaust manifold of my 97 SR 3.5L (245K). I thought it was just a bad gasket but alas- it is not so. It's small enough that the noise goes away once the car is warm.

I've got a new OEM on order but started to wonder, are there any options folks know of for improvement- eg headers?

It's a super pain to get at all this- but if I'm going to go there and can improve performance a bit...

Thanks for any insight or advice.

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