Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - CharlieN

Pages: [1] 2 3
1
Gen 2 Montero / Re: Electric Door Lock Issues
« on: August 10, 2019, 12:05:24 PM »
Start with checking if the actuator in the rear (cargo) door is functioning properly. Sticky handle not returning down or other issues.
Mine is to the point the key works in the drivers door but I need to cycle it 3 times to unlock the other doors., they go up a little each time.
Seems the Pax door does not signal the control unit or something, been a long time since I tried it. The key will not open the other doors from the pax side.

My remote did not like being in my pocket when I seem to have gone swimming out of my canoe a decade ago so I can not offer allot on it. but,
When using your remote, watch all actuators. might be one door is draggy such that it does not signal the control unit properly. They all must freely unlock it's door or an error happens.

2
Gen 2 Montero / Re: Gen2.5 EcuFlash Definition File
« on: May 17, 2018, 03:49:21 AM »
A Gen 3 ECU has transmission control incorporated in it and is not comparable with a Gen 2 which has a very simple external transmission control.

3
Gen 2 Montero / Re: JDM Gen 2 Profile - V20-V40
« on: May 16, 2018, 10:46:43 AM »
There are little details but you provided a very nice presentation. Being this is written for the States as time goes by there are more details on the engines but with the time cap involved it is not important yet.

I kind of wish I could just scrounge up many of the JDM parts we never saw so they could be retrofitted. Rear heater would be nice to have.

4
Gen 2 Montero / Re: JDM Gen 2 Profile - V20-V40
« on: May 16, 2018, 03:39:33 AM »
I like it but not to be too picky it needed to be edited before going to print. One example, a Gen1 shorty has a 92.5 wheelbase, a Gen2 shorty is 95.3, you used the shorter number for the Gen2.
The LWB has a similar difference between generations.
It might only be me who sees these things so maybe I should stay out.

5
Bit late but up here in Vermont the spare tire locks itself on now that magnesium chloride is being used to deice roads. No one can get their spare tires off. Maybe the thieves know how too.

6
Gen 2 Montero / Re: 95 3.5 Timing Belt Job Parts List?
« on: May 12, 2018, 03:08:48 AM »
As you get around to actually doing this job, one word of caution. When you get down to removing the crank pulley, be very careful since the pulley is tight in the timing pulley behind it.
The outer pulley itself is not mounted to the crankshaft, it locates on the front of the timing pulley and is clocked with a dowel pin that commonly gets destroyed by those not used to this task.
When the engine is at TDC the 3 blades of the crank sensor will interfere with the hall sender such that if the timing pulley slides forward it will destroy the sensor.
You either need to make sure the main crank pulley comes off without moving the timing pulley or turn the motor such that the timing blades are out of the sensor.

I go about this by leaving the crank bolt in place but backed off a number of turns then with a soft hammer tap sideways on the crank pulley rocking it so it releases slowly and controllably.

Paying attention when removing the crank pulley will reduce the need to rush out for another hundred in parts.

After that the rest of the job is a straight forward PIA.
The passenger side cams are very hard to hold in timing such that the plastic timing tools marketed for the 3000GT are very handy.

The small water hose from the front of the heads have been mentioned already. How are your valve cover gaskets?

This can be a 20+ Hr job so allow the time for it.

7
If you have a bent lower arm the truck will drive like poo.
The rack boots are not real bad to change especially if you are either replacing the outer tie rods or need to pull them off the rack during service. As long as the two mounting ears are intact on the left side of the rack it may well have no damage to it.
You do want to verify that the inner tie rods need a firm hand to move them in their inner pivot. If they fall under their own weight I would consider replacing the inners.

8
Did you actually bend the rack or just the tie rod?
If the rack is bent it will not travel smoothly through full stroke. If it travels then is this just the outer end which swaps out easy enough. The two mounting tabs on the driver side will generally break before the rack bends, but not always.
I just bought a used rack for a project from a salvage yard and other than one "not available in country" hydraulic tube the rack is fine.
The damaged tube looks to have been crushed either by a hammer blow or a tool.

9
Mitsubishi Related / Re: Gen 2 front brake rotor upgrade
« on: May 01, 2018, 02:13:04 AM »
I have been trying to figure out some of these parts in ASA, best I can tell ASA shows the choice of brake rotors for 15 or 16" wheels but no selection of any caliper or bracket differences between the rotor sizes. Just show the 15" size parts.
 Kind of a PIA here in the northeast where we do not have pick & pull yards within driving range.

10
Mitsubishi Related / Re: Gen 2 front brake rotor upgrade
« on: April 24, 2018, 03:11:04 PM »
Could I get a clarification on the aluminum brackets. Is there a particular year for these in the 2WD chassis because I seem to be finding just iron brackets. I have not chosen to just buy a set to gamble if I get Iron or alloy.
I am giving thought to go with PBR alloy calipers instead but I have quite a few sets of pads for the Montero fronts.

11
Mitsubishi Related / Re: Front Knuckles choice
« on: April 21, 2018, 08:08:09 AM »
Just out looking at this again, "our first sunny day above freezing in weeks" The steering arms on the Sport are very low compared to a Gen2 and especially the Gen3 I think these are low enough that I can ream the tie rod holes from the top and flip the TR ends and be very close.

12
Mitsubishi Related / Re: Front Knuckles choice
« on: April 21, 2018, 06:59:50 AM »
Looks like I got the images right,
I have a steering rack coming next week so that will be trial fitted. This is a long way from checking the bump steer.
I need to do some bookwork to see if I can get information on the splines and shaft lengths up front here. I do have the drivers side gen3 shaft so that may come apart and see if I can swap the shafts in the outer joint.

13
Mitsubishi Related / Re: Front Knuckles choice
« on: April 21, 2018, 06:55:12 AM »
A few pictures of a 2004 Sport Knuckle and half shaft on a Gen3, never used Imgur so not sure I have this right.






From my first look it is not too bad, halfshaft is short, maybe a gen3 inner and shaft fitted to an early outer might do it.

Camber, need to see once I can swing this through it's range of travel. Might need to fiddle with say the upper balljoint mount location to stand the wheel up a bit if it is off.

14
Mitsubishi Related / Re: Front Knuckles choice
« on: April 14, 2018, 04:47:31 PM »
This project is putting the gen3 subframes under my red gen1 turbo that the rear of the frame rusted out. I will end up with the coil spring front and IRS in back.
So yes this will have a rack in it.
I have been sitting on an Eaton LSD for the rear and will run a torsen up front.

Yesterday I bought a pair of 04 sport knuckles to start the conversion to selectable hubs.
Since the gen3 front diff housing, pinion mount is different than early housings I am going to see if just the right side tube will swap over from a non CAD axle. I have not looked close at this yet, waiting for the snow to go away still.
I do need a rack since my parts hulk is lacking that.
Other parts I am lacking is a 4.30 ratio rear diff and a pair of rear axles. There is a set down in Conn for easy money but I think I should get this to be a roller first.

Pages: [1] 2 3