Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - CharlieN

Pages: 1 [2] 3
16
Mitsubishi Related / Re: Front Knuckles choice
« on: April 21, 2018, 06:55:12 AM »
A few pictures of a 2004 Sport Knuckle and half shaft on a Gen3, never used Imgur so not sure I have this right.






From my first look it is not too bad, halfshaft is short, maybe a gen3 inner and shaft fitted to an early outer might do it.

Camber, need to see once I can swing this through it's range of travel. Might need to fiddle with say the upper balljoint mount location to stand the wheel up a bit if it is off.

17
Mitsubishi Related / Re: Front Knuckles choice
« on: April 14, 2018, 04:47:31 PM »
This project is putting the gen3 subframes under my red gen1 turbo that the rear of the frame rusted out. I will end up with the coil spring front and IRS in back.
So yes this will have a rack in it.
I have been sitting on an Eaton LSD for the rear and will run a torsen up front.

Yesterday I bought a pair of 04 sport knuckles to start the conversion to selectable hubs.
Since the gen3 front diff housing, pinion mount is different than early housings I am going to see if just the right side tube will swap over from a non CAD axle. I have not looked close at this yet, waiting for the snow to go away still.
I do need a rack since my parts hulk is lacking that.
Other parts I am lacking is a 4.30 ratio rear diff and a pair of rear axles. There is a set down in Conn for easy money but I think I should get this to be a roller first.

18
Build Threads / Re: 1999 Pajero Super Exceed SWB DiD (gen3)
« on: March 27, 2018, 06:42:12 AM »
Sweet

19
Mitsubishi Related / Re: TRE Air Lockers
« on: March 26, 2018, 05:30:43 PM »
There Torsen diff is about $450 to 500USD, with a bit under $200 shipping. More than one vendor, not sure if one or two manufacturers.
 One possible issue is most credit cards do not work there so straight PayPal would be needed. Probably other options as well.
I think their engineering quality and materials should be fine though.
I would not expect a great warentee but could be wrong. I learned about these through some car guys in Germany. They are happy with the product.

20
Mitsubishi Related / Re: TRE Air Lockers
« on: March 26, 2018, 04:47:35 AM »
I see they have Torsen type diffs as well and offer them for our front diffs, I need one and was going to buy one of the Russian diffs, this offers an option for us who desire an LSD up front.

21
General Discussion / Re: Almost there! New paj is a few hours away
« on: March 23, 2018, 04:22:47 PM »
Very nice Phil.

22
Gen 2 Montero / Re: How to fix second row recliner
« on: March 19, 2018, 04:35:03 AM »
Have either of you had all 3 seats all folded down? It sure is lumpy but offers room. My 3rd row seats I removed quite early so I do not recall much about them and one lever one the DS 2nd row, I broke early on as well but the Pax side works. Mine is a '95 so they are not split seats.

Folding the 2Nd set forward is a pull strap under the rear of the seat drivers side. Slide seat forward then reach around and the seat to pull the strap and lift. folds tight to the front seat.

23
Gen 2 Montero / Re: How to burp/bleed gen 2 cooling system?
« on: March 19, 2018, 04:23:21 AM »
Draining is a bit of a PIA since both radiator hoses come off the engine up petty high, the lower part of the block will not drain unless the plugs are pulled from each side of the engine. Something most of us are reluctant to do.
So when flushing, multiple drain fill cycles through the radiator get a fair bit out but never a true flush. You do need to warm the engine each flush to open the Tstat. No need to bleed the system during flushing.
If the engine has lived with straight water for year I expect a chemical flush is needed to loosen crap that is settled in the block.
Warm or hot water fill makes the flushing go quicker with the final fill with coolant added is best with a cool fill just so the bleed cycle works properly.

Many years back when I built my 3.8 DOHC motor I bought many parts on Ebay, particularly cooling system so I had a selection to pick from. One of the large steel coolant pipes that come over the engine from the rear I got out of the LA area, sure was beautiful on the outside. But once I had it in hand it was rusted through from the inside. It was scrap.

In the race cars I build & maintain we run a bottle of RedLine water wetter in the system to prevent corrosion.

24
Gen 2 Montero / Re: How to burp/bleed gen 2 cooling system?
« on: March 18, 2018, 03:56:13 AM »
The bleeder on top of the water neck is the important one. Bleeding is best done with radiator cap on so pressure can build. Starting with a cold system back off the bleeder bolt or start with it out, put the bleeder bolt in place with just a few threads engaged till just water is trying to escape. Close it and run the engine up to full temp. No need to rev the engine at this point.
When at full temp if you do not feel all air is out, with engine idling crack the bleeder, do not back it out far. Do not rev the engine.
Close system up, make sure coolant reservoir is pretty full and shut down and let cool.

Do not open the system during cool down since the system will be drawing coolant from the overflow.

FWIW, this system is quite well designed in such there are bleeder hoses that come off the front of the heads, behind the Tbelt up into the thermo housing. it allows for a much more active bleeding system during the life of the vehicle.

I would also NOT run straight water in these, you need at least some sort of good corrosion inhibitor.

25
The compressor mounts in the right hatch under the rear seat, outboard side of the compartment.
The control unit is above that behind the side panel.
The switch location is the front face of the center console, not in the dash. Just to clarify.

If you swap in the '95 axle change the front as well so the ratios match. Technically also change the gear driving the speedometer sender in the back of the Tcase.
What happens if you drive with unmatched gears, if driven in 4hi not locked, you will burn out the limited slip in the transfer case pretty quickly.
If you drive it in locked 4WD, you will not enjoy it at all.

26
Build Threads / Re: reversecaoboy's montebro
« on: March 14, 2018, 09:43:22 AM »
Out of curiosity I did not see mention of changing the front diff when you re-geared the rig.
And your soft pedal after caliper change, the shop probably let the fluid run out of the brake system and you have air in the ABS pump. Good luck with that, it can be a PIA getting the ABS bled out.

27
Mitsubishi Related / Re: 6G75 Variable Intake - The Piston Eater
« on: March 14, 2018, 08:41:39 AM »
To add another thing, if you are looking to 3D print the bushings for the intake I would consider filament from, https://www.igus.eu/wpck/10783/3Dprinting

28
Mitsubishi Related / Re: 6G75 Variable Intake - The Piston Eater
« on: March 14, 2018, 08:13:06 AM »
Many years ago I did start to build a new mid intake manifold for my SR. A big block of phenolic to machine which would eliminate the long low speed intake tract.
The second SR I bought came to me with a brand new intake on it and at that time I swapped it onto my driver.
After a few days of driving with the system functioning I just unplugged the vacuum hose so the butterflies will not close, all they do is kill the mid range power. I do not recall just what rpm the butterflies open on the G74 but it was way higher than torque peak.
I do recall the same thing on the 12V motor in my Diamante wagon, the engine was dead till 3500 and then suddenly came to life.
I eliminated the butterflies and saw a 2mp improvement with the added power.
A year later I swapped in a G72 DOHC with 5 speed from a 3KGT into my wagon. That engine was dead to 4500RPM and then came to life. Again I deleted the vacuum system so the valves were open. An instant 4 MPG from the increase of mid range power.

So no, I have not made the custom manifold for the 6G74, I just deleted the vacuum actuator so the butterflies close. This way they never see the large pulses which fatigue all the small parts in the intake, very little chance of failure run this way.

FWIW the 6G72 DOHC in my wagon has 280K miles on it with the original intake valves with no issue. Had I not run some cheap synthetic oil for too long I would happily be driving that car but I stupidly let it spin a rod bearing.

So my opinion, if you have a set of butterlies that clatter, pull the valves and shaft out of the intake. Seal the open end where the shaft came though and run it.
If the intake is not clattering, delete the vacuum actuator and run it open, on my 3.8L DOHC engine I think it was 1 or 2 mpg improvement, about what delectable hubs up front offer.

29
General Discussion / Re: Toyota transmission?
« on: March 13, 2018, 09:21:10 AM »
Here are some numbers,
K97W which has a 2.8 diesel,
Bell, MR165076
Tcase adapter, MB896833

KH8W which has a 3.2 DiD
Bell, 2501A054
Tcase adapter, 2501A063

V77W with 3.8L
Bell MN171143

V45W, Various V6
Bell, MR165075

These numbers are from Brazil and EU.
Mexican vehicles seem to be automatics, probably sourced from US

I can get more Tcase adapter numbers but I expect they are not just what we need for these swaps since shaft splines and such are different.
Back a decade ago when I was building the 3.8 DOHC for my SR and importer in Miami had two of these Asian gearboxes with Tcases, complete. I wish I understood what I was looking at cause I would have bought them.

30
Build Threads / Re: My 99 Montero
« on: March 13, 2018, 04:01:10 AM »
I love the look of the 2.5 and it sure looks even better when the city style is striped from it.

Pages: 1 [2] 3