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Messages - MrGalantguy

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10
1
ALL MAKES - ALL MODELS - Build Threads / Re: Sedole's Gen 3
« on: July 19, 2019, 03:10:34 PM »
I am curious...where did you get your hub centric rings?

2
Gen 2 Montero / Re: Bars to mount RTT
« on: February 11, 2019, 02:22:45 PM »
Concealer...what gutter mounts did you end up using? I am looking at gutter mounts myself. I currently don't plan to install a RTT...but its not something I would rule out in the future so buying gutter mounts that would handle static and motion weight of maybe installing a RTT in the future is something I won't mind.

Even if I never install a RTT...at least I have the peace of mind knowing it can handle some decent weight if I needed.

3
Looks like a fun time. Like your cockpit setup 8)

4
Meaning to post this a couple weeks ago but I got a lot of things going on with work and family recently I haven't had any time to really do things I do to "relax". Several weeks ago me and my son took a trip to check out Lake Apopka which is the 4th largest lake in Florida. It has some very interesting history especially how humans can cause sooo much destruction but also can do amazing things if we do the right thing. We were hoping to see more of the northern migration birds that come down during the winter but we will have to make another visit in another month or so...but none the less it was a great experience seeing some native florida wildlife in their natural habitat and some we never seen before.

Lake Apopka WMA by grimgs, on Flickr
Lake Apopka WMA by grimgs, on Flickr
Lake Apopka WMA by grimgs, on Flickr
Lake Apopka WMA by grimgs, on Flickr
Lake Apopka WMA by grimgs, on Flickr
Lake Apopka WMA by grimgs, on Flickr
Lake Apopka WMA by grimgs, on Flickr
Lake Apopka WMA by grimgs, on Flickr
Lake Apopka WMA by grimgs, on Flickr

This is the biggest pump "house" they used to pump water back into the land that used to have water originally. Years ago Farmers pumped out water to use for farming which through time ruined the area with the chemicals they used while farming. As part of the revitalization project after the state of Florida bought up majority of the land back from the farmers...they started pumping water back into the areas where water was originally and introducing native species to help recover the natural ecosystem that once thrived before humans destroyed the land.

Lake Apopka WMA by grimgs, on Flickr
Lake Apopka WMA by grimgs, on Flickr
Lake Apopka WMA by grimgs, on Flickr
Lake Apopka WMA by grimgs, on Flickr

One lonely gator
Lake Apopka WMA by grimgs, on Flickr
Lake Apopka WMA by grimgs, on Flickr
Lake Apopka WMA by grimgs, on Flickr
Lake Apopka WMA by grimgs, on Flickr
Lake Apopka WMA by grimgs, on Flickr
Lake Apopka WMA by grimgs, on Flickr
Lake Apopka WMA by grimgs, on Flickr
Lake Apopka WMA by grimgs, on Flickr
Lake Apopka WMA by grimgs, on Flickr















5
Adventure Reports / Re: Montero Milestones: Labor Day on Padre Island
« on: November 12, 2018, 08:16:31 AM »
In Florida its very strict and highly prohibited obviously especially during the nesting season for the sea turtles. Most famous spot to drive on the beach is Daytona..but that is very crowded during the summer months.

Still wanting to do it sometime...would be very continent to have our Montero on the beach with a awning and able to set up camp for the day and not haul a crap ton of stuff just to enjoy the beach, just have it all in the Montero accessible.

6
Awesome job with the links and part numbers.  Kudos!

Thanks man....I have to see if the Gen 3 and 2 share the same flasher relay. If so..then I will do the LED upgrade on my wifes Gen 3 soon also.

7
Curious..what was your ball park investment on rebuilding the heads?  My wifes Gen 3 needs to get the valve stem seals replaced...I am debating on finding a another 3.5 and freshen that up and swapping the original motor.

Trying to weigh which is more cost effective. Motor runs like a champ and still very quiet ...just the valve stem seals are the issue. Currently sitting at 194k...and seeing if its worth refreshing the heads and slapping them on or buying a "lower milage" motor, refresh it with new seals, front case service, etc and swapping it. The Gen 3 is going to be a lifer unless other circumstances force me to get rid of it.

8
ALL MAKES - ALL MODELS - Build Threads / Turn Signal LED Upgrade
« on: November 07, 2018, 06:49:31 AM »
I decided to upgrade my turn signal bulbs to LED bulbs. Main reason is I wanted my turn signals to be brighter, less electrical draw and well...LED's flashing is visually satisfying. 8)

One of the biggest issues with replacing your standard incandescent factory bulbs to LED's is the "Hyper flashing" issue due to less resistance the LED bulbs have. After researching and reading and not wanting to install a inline resistor i found out that you can replace the turn signal relay and resolve the hyper flashing issue. No cutting wires...no splicing....just a simple replacement of a relay and you are good.

To get to the relay you will have to remove the lower cover of the steering column. You will have to pop the 2 square covers to access the 10mm nuts and the bottom edges are Philips head screws.
Groot by grimgs, on Flickr

After you remove those you will have to remove x4 Philips head screws right where the hood release and fuel tank door release latches are at...there are x2 on each side.
 Groot by grimgs, on Flickr

Right behind the dash speaker area you will see another junction relay where the flasher relay sits. Its a 3 prong relay Mitsubishi part# MR252921 and to remove it you will have to press down on the top and bottom lock latches. If you have big hands its going to be PITA..but still doable.
Groot by grimgs, on Flickr


This is the relay I bought from Amazon that will replace the factory one and resolve the hyper flash issue.
iJDMTOY (1) 3-Pin CF-13 Electronic Flasher Relay Fix For LED Turn Signal Light Bulbs
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008C9YJ6C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Groot by grimgs, on Flickr
Groot by grimgs, on Flickr

Now to replacing the bulbs...I bought all my bulbs from Amazon and provided links and description for what I bought. ALL the turn signal bulbs are 1156 type of bulbs...the only thing I made sure is that the bulbs emitted a Amber/Yellow light obviously.

1156 LED Bulbs Amber Yellow, Super Bright 3030 Chips with Projector BA15S 7506 1141 1003 1073,12V-24V Replacement for RV Tail Lights Turn Signal Blinker Lights Reverse Lights- pack of 2
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078PFWP7B/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Groot by grimgs, on Flickr
Groot by grimgs, on Flickr
Groot by grimgs, on Flickr

Now for my driving lights I used these bulbs (Remember this is if you have JDM corner lens...this won't apply for the USDM corner lens)
SiriusLED Backup Reverse Light Canbus error free LED Bulb Size 921 Super Bright 3030 SMD Xenon White 6000k Pack of 2
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D9DFWGM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Groot by grimgs, on Flickr

My rear turn signal bulbs I decided to use these as the reviews on these were great and they were bright.
AMAZENAR 2-Pack 1156 BA15S 1141 1003 7506 1073 Extremely Bright Amber/Yellow LED Light 9-30V-DC, AK-3014 39 SMD Replacement Bulbs For Turn Signal Lights Tail BackUp Bulbs
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MYPL5HH/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Groot by grimgs, on Flickr

Groot by grimgs, on Flickr

Also those that are interested my headlight LED bulbs I used are these:
BEAMTECH H4 LED Headlight Bulb, 50W 6500K 8000Lumens Extremely Brigh (9003 Hi/Lo) CSP Chips Conversion Kit
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XHD78DQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Fog Lights I used:
Calais Extremely Bright LED H3 COB Chips 30W Golden Yellow Color LED Fog Light Bulbs Plug-n-Play(pack of 2)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CTMT01G?tag=viglink20599-20

Groot by grimgs, on Flickr

9
For those interested in the Beck Arnley parts I used here are pics of the parts and part #'s. I bought everything from Rockauto.com other than the OEM Idler arm which I got from my local Mitsubishi dealer.

Groot by grimgs, on Flickr

Outer Tie Rods (Beck Arnley caps the zerk fitting openings but they come with the zerk fittings in the box)
Groot by grimgs, on Flickr

Inner Tie Rods
Groot by grimgs, on Flickr
Groot by grimgs, on Flickr

Pitman Arm
Groot by grimgs, on Flickr
Groot by grimgs, on Flickr

Upper Ball joints
Groot by grimgs, on Flickr
Groot by grimgs, on Flickr



10
Here is the scene before teardown...doesn't look bad till you start to really inspect the parts and checking them.
Groot by grimgs, on Flickr
Groot by grimgs, on Flickr

Groot by grimgs, on Flickr

New idler arm installed.
Groot by grimgs, on Flickr

Even with spraying rust penetrant all week it wasn't good enough. I ended up rounding the castle nut on the passenger side upper ball joint when I thought I was loosening it.  :-[ I ended up taking my angle grinder and cutting the bottom shaft off the upper ball joint. From this point I knew that I would need my trusty torch method for the rest of the other parts I was going to remove and pretty much it was smooth sailing.
Groot by grimgs, on Flickr

Upper ball joint finally out
Groot by grimgs, on Flickr

Groot by grimgs, on Flickr
Groot by grimgs, on Flickr

All the new steering parts installed along with new upper ball joints. Even though the joints were pre greased from factory..I went ahead and topped it off with Lucas Red tacky stuff.
Groot by grimgs, on Flickr
Groot by grimgs, on Flickr

For some reason I read somewhere that the lower ball joints didn't have any zerk fittings to grease them up or maybe I was wrong but I found them hidden under dried up old grease with layers of dirt covering it. Fitting is back side of the LCA where the lower ball joint is...you will see a circular cutout on the LCA and this is where the zerk fitting is located. Once I found it I cleaned up the area and got as much of the old dirty grease out and exposed the fitting and cleaned that up too. My lower ball joints were still good..rubber actually looked good with no cracks.
Groot by grimgs, on Flickr

All the old steering parts and upper ball joints.
Groot by grimgs, on Flickr

11
For the past couple of months my steering has gotten progressively worse. Steering started to feel vague and required more input that normal for turn in and steering wheel vibration. I figured my ball joints were the issue and probably my shocks but with work I barely had anytime to really diagnose the issue and regret it as it ate up my front tires especially the passenger side. My upper ball joints were shot but the lower ball joints were still good. As I was checking for ball joint issues or wheel bearing I noticed I was getting excessive play from the steering parts.

I went ahead and ordered inner and outer tie rods, new OEM idler arm and Pitman arm. I bought the ADD Kingpin upgrade months ago and went ahead and did the upgrade on the new OEM idler arm. I recently ordered ADD Upper and Lower chromoly ball joints but I wanted to wait to install them both when I install the UCA and LCA with Siberian bushings installed next year so I bought a Beck Arnley upper ball joint to replace the shot ball joints.

I had presoaked all the suspension parts that I was going to remove a week ahead to help aid in removal. I learned real quick on the 1st upper ball joint that I will need to use my trusty torch to remove the rest of the nuts as it rounded out when trying to remove it. I ended up cutting the lower shaft of the right side upper ball joint with my angle grinder carefully. I didn't have much of a issue with the rest of the nuts using my torch to heat them up to break them loose so the rest of the process went somewhat smoother.

Getting ready to install the ADD Kingpin on the OEM idler arm
Groot by grimgs, on Flickr

I didn't realize how tight these plastic bushings were in the idler body...thanks to John to confirm what I had to do, I went ahead forward. Just make sure you find the "lip" of the bushing and try to bang it out of the body, just make sure you don't do much damage to actual inner metal part of the body of the idler.
Groot by grimgs, on Flickr

This is the top bushing, its pretty easy to knock out.
Groot by grimgs, on Flickr

Now the bottom bushing is a bit tricky. You will have to remove the OEM seal which is pressed in tight and the clearance between the bottom bushing the the seal is very small. Initially I was just banging out the outer section of the seal but I was close to causing damage to the actual idler body. I then used a small pick and try to wedge it between the bottom bushing and the deal and once you do that the seal lifts pretty easy and comes out.
Groot by grimgs, on Flickr
Groot by grimgs, on Flickr
Groot by grimgs, on Flickr
Groot by grimgs, on Flickr

Once you pop the seal out you can then bang out the bottom bushings. Like the top...just find the lip and start chipping away. The bottom bushing is a little bit more difficult compared to the top...so patience is the key here.
Groot by grimgs, on Flickr

Install the brass bushings in place where the oem plastic ones used to be. Bottom one you will have to press/bang it in. I used a 22mm socket and turned it opposite way in and use it to fully seat the brass bushing. Once that's it..then I used the same technique to get the seal provided by ADD to seat it to the idler body.
Groot by grimgs, on Flickr
Groot by grimgs, on Flickr


12
This is a great write-up. Looks like I have a maintenance project this coming winter.

13
Took my son on his very 1st camping trip this past weekend as my brother in law invited us because my nephew who is in the boy scouts had a family camp weekend. Campsite was at Camp Lanoche just outside of the Ocala National forest. Plenty of activities like archery and BB guns, fishing, etc etc. My son absolutely loved it..and as a big nature/wildlife fan he felt right at home.

Camp Lanoche by grimgs, on Flickr
Camp Lanoche by grimgs, on Flickr
Camp Lanoche by grimgs, on Flickr
Camp Lanoche by grimgs, on Flickr
Camp Lanoche by grimgs, on Flickr
Camp Lanoche by grimgs, on Flickr
Camp Lanoche by grimgs, on Flickr

14
Gen 3 Montero / Hydraulic brake booster repair
« on: October 05, 2018, 06:10:31 AM »
Last week my wifes Gen 3 hydraulic brake booster finally gave up while she was on her way from my brother in laws house. The ABS light and Brake light came on and then a constant buzzing sound from the dash suddenly..so she pulled into a neighborhood. She still had brakes so she called me and told me the issue and she was about less than a mile from home so I said try to make it home. When she proceeded to go home she lost her brakes completely...pedal got very stiff with little to no brake pressure, she pulled into a super market parking lot relying on her E-brake.

I got home and started to diagnose and after some quick research I read the culprit is the pump motor so I checked for that 1st. I turned the key on the "ON" position and you should hear the pump/accumulator cycle but I didn't anything at all. After attempting to check a couple times the pump was definitely the pump motor.

I ordered a HBB unit from a fellow Montero owner from the FB for sale groups and he came through with a very reasonable price and shipped it out promptly. Once I received it i prepped the unit and proceeded to install it and go through the normal way I always bleed my systems for year with my bleeder kit. I was having no luck...pedal was going straight to the floor even with pressing the pedal 30-40x's to prime the accumulator. I was hearing and seeing the pump cycling when I had the key on the ON position but I couldn't get the system to bleed correctly.

I found this article on a Pajero owners group and followed the steps they posted and it worked for me. Also this link has tips on diagnosing and repairing the HBB pump motor. I found out the Toyota and Lexus share the similar Aisin HBB units. The design of the units are different..but seems they all use the same pumps at the Gen 3 Monteros so this allows for more options to find a replacement motor.

https://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=46516

Monty by grimgs, on Flickr
The original failed unit

Monty by grimgs, on Flickr
The new "used" HBB unit

Monty by grimgs, on Flickr
I will most likely get the original failed HBB sent out for a rebuild. Rockauto has a procedure to send your HBB out for a rebuild...I believe its $300 to get it rebuild.

Monty by grimgs, on Flickr
Taking out the HBB is really simple.

-x4 brake lines on the unite (x2 on the front and x2 on the side where the accumulator sits
-Disconnect the pin where the brake pedal attaches to the HBB unit which is a cotter pin and the lock pin slides out.
-x4 12mm mounting nuts inside firewall.



I was eventually successful bleeding the system and after driving the Montero for 30 mins...the HBB unit sorted itself out and pedal feel got closer to normal and the ABS and BRAKE light eventually went off including the buzzing sound after the HBB unit cycled a few times.



15
One of the bolt threads for the skid plates was barely threaded when I got my Montero and finally after the last oil change the last remaining useful threads gave up. I thought this would be a good opportunity to teach my son and daughter something and had them help me helicoil the stripped thread.

Groot by grimgs, on Flickr
My son threading for the helicoil

Groot by grimgs, on Flickr
My daughter installing the helicoil

Groot by grimgs, on Flickr
Lil man tighting the bolts for the front skid.

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