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Messages - Justice

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Mitsubishi Related / Re: Gen 1 trailing arms?
« on: November 26, 2018, 10:09:57 PM »
The gen 2 arms are definitely thicker at the point of breakage. I’ve compared them side by side. Wheel with gen 1 trailing arms at your own peril. They will break.

Gen 2 Montero / Re: 3.5 SOHC (Gen 2.5) Timing Belt Parts List
« on: August 05, 2018, 09:08:04 PM »
One key to saving money doing this job is to know what brands are oem and finding a kit that offers them.

I ordered a kit on eBay which came with a genuine mitsuboshi  timing belt, NTN tensioner, Koyo idler and tensioner bearings an AISIN water pump and all seals “made in Japan”

Much more expensive than the cheap kits, but way cheaper than dealer prices.

Mitsubishi Related / Re: Bearing Cross reference Thread
« on: August 05, 2018, 05:07:47 PM »
NSK 17831 - cup 17887 -cone (this number was pulled from the OEM installed bearing)

Front 8” differential carrier bearings

You’ll need one of these to install front ARB air locker (ARB-110) unless you pull and re-use the old one.

The Arb kit comes with one carrier bearing for the air side of the carrier which has a smaller OD to fit inside the ARB air/o-ring sleeve.

I've seen some online hacks, that go in at the changer plug and they play a CD in the changer with a "silent MP3" track to trick the changer controls.

I don't really care about retaining use of the changer, but I'll keep it there if need be. Seems kinda like a lot of trouble. I think I could  cut off the changer audio input and tap in the Aux downstream a while keeping  the control wiring hooked up to allow the changer to think its working? then I could just leave any old CD in there and not worry about playing a silent track?

I like the look and feel of the old stereo in this 99 for some weird reason. So I want to try and retain it. Its the one with a CD slot below the radio. The last 99 I had, I put in an aftermarket double DIN that fit nicely, but the lighting and controls just seemed out of place in a 99 and it was hard to get it to sound right with factory amp. My drivers side  door speaker is blown too, so need to find a suitable replacement for those that will work with the factory unit. I dread taking the door panel off but, I should get over it and just do it. Funny I can pull the engine down to the block but I'm scared to remove door panels...

Opinions on best/easiest way to add and Aux. input? The cassette adapter doesn't work for me. Go in from the CD changer cable?

Mitsubishi Related / Bearing Cross reference Thread
« on: October 08, 2017, 10:08:29 PM »
I was the parts manager for a medical vacuum and air company for a while. Vacuum pumps are a weird animal with many coming from Italy and Germany. Anyways, long story short,  I found a lot of work arounds for sourcing hard to find or exorbitantly OEM priced bearings and seals, by sizing them and locating the equivalent, from specialized bearing suppliers which are usually same brand as OEM. Just need the ID (inside diameter) OD (Outside diameter) and width  measurements. digital calipers usually work pretty good and if there's a brand and trade number that's usually etched on to the side of the oem bearing being replaced, that helps verify the measurements. SKF/Koyo etc pretty much use very similar number sequences.

We should spec out all Gen differential bearings, T case bearings, and any other hard to find or expensive ones we can think of and deposit the information here. If anyone has any lying around please share and take photos of any makings. I may have some Gen 1 front diff bearings somewhere in an ARB box, I'll try to start it off soon.

This could save some cash for those of us installing lockers, gears, T-case reduction sets, etc.

Mitsubishi Related / Re: The Never Ending Misfire
« on: October 03, 2017, 05:54:19 PM »
Most all  24V V6's use the same "power Unit" I think the FSM calls it the Ignition power module. Since they are plentiful and easy to get, i would try putting one in. I had a misfire on my 99, and took the power unit out of a 94 just to test, and that was the source of the misfire. Its the small black plastic box with  a plug going into it on the top of the plenumn.

Mitsubishi Related / Re: Ball Joints / Tie rods and CVboots
« on: August 21, 2017, 08:50:14 PM »
Ive Used the EMPI CV boots for the inner CV's on a couple different Gen 2's with good results.

General Discussion / Re: >>> Where we look forward from >>>
« on: July 24, 2017, 10:08:48 PM »
My 2nd 95, running 33's on the stock rims...Pedro with the thornbirds..

Gen 2 Montero / Re: Gen 2 Heater Core Replacement and differences
« on: July 22, 2017, 10:25:11 PM »
Random info, the 95 I Sold to JBFP had coolant smell in the cab, which I assume was the heater core vaporizing coolant. The 99 I believe you have now had a clogged core when I got it, no heat at all. I was in north carolina at the time and it gets cold there. I disconnected the heater hoses and ran CLR mixture through it until I was able to get decent flow. Heater worked OK after that, not the best but it worked.

My current 99 leaks, I cant see any moisture but I can smell it. I suck at putting interior parts back together, so I'm considering bypassing it.

Mitsubishi Related / Re: Injector information.. 3.5L engines
« on: June 29, 2017, 10:08:20 PM »
Interesting indeed...

Mitsubishi Related / Re: Broken crank bolt
« on: June 11, 2017, 08:19:02 AM »
1st option is to drill it out. Right angle drill, remove radiator to get as strait shot at it. may want to remove condenser and front body panel too. once enough material is removed, re tap. There's some type of special kit available that I've seen others use with success. Others can help more here.

if drilling fails the bolt can be popped or exploded out with an Ox-etalyne torch. I used this method after I broke a drill bit off in the bolt and could no longer drill it. the bolt vaporizes if done right and quickly since the bolt is a different type of hardened steel it will melt before the crankshaft metal (but you must do this quickly,  then run a tap. The repair I did lasted years (2002) and I think this engine is still in service in an AZ crew rig possibly. All related parts should be replaced after bolt removed. Harmonic ballancer, crank gear, updated bolt etc.

People don't like to use this method, but if all else fails its worth a try before you go pulling the engine to replace the crankshaft.

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