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Gen 2 Montero / Re: 5.29 in Gen 2.5
« Last post by jdavis on November 20, 2019, 08:59:11 PM »
Did you ever get the gears installed?
Gen 2 Montero / Re: Intake Manfold Vacuum Leak
« Last post by radar56 on October 14, 2019, 02:50:57 PM »
Ended up pulling her apart and found an o-ring that fit.
Gen 2 Montero / Re: Control Arms Good?
« Last post by AaronVenable on October 12, 2019, 09:24:16 AM »
New OEM control arm assemblies are $150 per side and they come with a new balljoint, polyurethane UCA rebuild kit is $80 and OEM upper balljoints are $50 each roughly or you can buy new Chinese arm assemblies W/balljoints for $85 shipped.
 I recommend poly if you have big tires, it's a job but not terrible especially if you buy donor used arms (adds to the cost). If you want it awesome and easy go OEM, if you cheap out on Chinese arms pay attention to the shaft nuts as they are known to back off and spit out the bushing.

How long's it been since you bought OEM control arms? Finding them discontinued everywhere.
Gen 2 Montero / 5.29 in Gen 2.5
« Last post by Machobishi on October 07, 2019, 04:13:56 PM »
I scored front and rear 5.29's from a Montero guy locally that had them since 2003, that he imported from Australia and never installed, I have a 2000 Montero that I installed a 99 Montero rear differential into it. After lots of searching and Mitsubishi manual reading, I don't know if the pinion with 25 splines will work in my 2000/1999 front and rear differentials. Any help would be appreciated. I decided that they are the proverbial "Pig in a poke", but for $400 I jumped on them ASAP. I counted the ring gears 37 teeth and the pinion's 7 teeth and yep, they're 5.285 gears (I just took the sellers word for it, then confirmed after the purchase!). Both pinions have 25 splines.

What do I need to know, to make these work. I'm looking to run 17x8 and 35" wheels in future, that's why i grabbed them.

Thanks, Machobishi

Mitsubishi Related / Rear Door/5th Door Actuator
« Last post by Flooder on September 30, 2019, 11:25:01 PM »
My rear door/5th door lock actuator works fine when I removed it from the car and tested it on the battery. But it doesn't work when plugged into the system. Any thoughts on how to troubleshoot this problem?

I have a 2000 Mitsubishi Montero
Mitsubishi Related / Rough Idle after work
« Last post by Flooder on September 30, 2019, 10:22:44 PM »
Hi Guys, I have a 2000 montero. I replaced the throttle control position switch and during the work I pulled off the negative terminal on the battery. When I put the terminal back on the idle runs rough. It is continually searching for the idle. Prior to the work I did the idle was fine.

Does anyone know how to fix this?
Gen 2 Montero / Intake Manfold Vacuum Leak
« Last post by radar56 on September 30, 2019, 06:12:06 PM »
Anyone every rebuilt the intake manifold on a 3.5?  Mine appears to have a pretty bad vacuum leak on the front where the butterfly valve leakage is.  I can hear the leak it is so bad...

ALL MAKES - ALL MODELS - Build Threads / Re: Rambo Penguin's Gen 3 Montero Build
« Last post by Rambo Penguin on September 23, 2019, 11:35:26 PM »
I finally did it! I built a front bumper! Iíve wanted to do this since i moved to Montana to give me a fighting chance against the massive population of deer out here. My goal was complicated. I wanted to build something that matched the lines of the Montero, was as light as possible, was removable for ease of maintenance, could protect against light animal strikes, wouldnít hinder the epic approach angle that i already had, and would be cheap. Obviously if I was really worried about animal strikes and performance i would just get an ARB, but they are out of my budget and I think they look ridiculous on the gen 3. There isnít a straight line almost anywhere on the car, and the ARB is just an angular block. Doesnít fit the style and it adds about a foot to the front of the car. The big challenge here is that the Gen 3 doesnít have anywhere to mount a bumper too, since itís a unibody. Iíll go into a good amount of detail about the build here, if you just want to see the end result skip it and check out the pics at the end, my feelings wonít be hurt.

Step 1) prep the front end for a bumper. There are 2 things that need to move when building a bumper: the windshield washer reservoir and the factory crash bars. The crash bars are easy, grab a sawzall and go. I cut through the thinner metal and left the rest intact. I cleaned it up with a dremel and painted the whole thing black. The washer reservoir is also easy to remove and some people just leave them off, but I like being able to wash off my windshield so I decided to come up with an alternative reservoir. A quick Ebay search lead me to a $10 washer fluid bag with a pump included. Splice it into the factory wires, run the plumbing to the factory spots and itís done. I hung it right behind my passenger headlight.

Step 2) build a bumper mounting point.

I saw a lot of different designs for this. All are by DIY intensive and require a lot of tools and skill. Mine, unfortunately, is not any different. I opted to basically continue to build out the Box and ladder frame design that the montero already had (even though itís a unibody.. So weird how they built these). So I used a hole saw to cut a 2Ē hole in the rails, put a piece of ⅛Ē wall tubing through it and welded it to the frame as best I could. This is about as solid of a mount as it gets. It would be nearly impossible to get that bar to move in the frame rails. After that I welded some mounting plates to it. I used ⅛Ē metal for everything. This would serve as the permanent side of the bumper mount and allow for me to have a clear spot to attach the bumper and also allow me to easily remove it later.

Step 3) The actual bumper

Similar to the mounting point, I designed a plate that would bolt on and hold the bumper. I decided to go with a tube bumper to save weight and to follow the montero styling. This proved to be a lot more work than i thought. Iíd never worked with tubing before and it proved to be much harder than expected. After hours of bending, measuring, cutting, redoing, welding and a lot of head scratching and staring, I finally settled on something I liked. Simple, clean and attainable. This was far from my best work, my welds were strong but ugly, my angles are off, things are uneven, but in the grand scheme of it all, you wonít notice unless you were looking for it. Overall, iím happy. Iíll probably keep cleaning it up and making it look a little better. I plan to add some amber fog lights as well to help with snow glare this winter. Iím proud that i built it myself, i feel like it will be sufficient to protect my rig in most applications and i like the way it looks well enough.

And now, pictures. Unfortunately I didnít take a lot of shots during the creation process.. Basically there was a lot of grinding, bending and welding.. But now itís done and looks like this!

Side note: Chances are very high that this is hurting my MPG because you can see almost all of my 33Ē tire haha. I might try to make it more aerodynamic (something like filling in the sides or making an integrated front skid plate.. But those are problems for the future)
ALL MAKES - ALL MODELS - Build Threads / Re: Rambo Penguin's Gen 3 Montero Build
« Last post by Rambo Penguin on September 23, 2019, 11:26:39 PM »
Some shots of the painted wells

ALL MAKES - ALL MODELS - Build Threads / Re: Rambo Penguin's Gen 3 Montero Build
« Last post by Rambo Penguin on September 23, 2019, 11:23:38 PM »
Remember how those wide wheels were running into my fenders? Yeah thatís still a thing. My bump stops helped a lot in the rear, but the front was still smashing into my guards, linders and bending stuff. This was very apparent when i went to the sand dunes and treated my montero like a dune buggy. I had the suspension at full compression multiple times at high speeds, and everything got crunched. Here are some pics that better explain what time talking about

This was before the stiffer/taller lift in the front, so that will help slow things down for sure, but i still needed to remove stuff. Iíve ripped out 3 sets of fender liners already, so those were already removed. Next was to cut the fender and flares back. Iíll be honestly, there wasnít exactly a science to this. I cut the metal fender back so that it was nearly even with the height of the frame so that i wouldnít smash it. Next I drilled out the rivets on the plastic flares and cut them back as well. This gave me nearly an inch of extra width and should be enough to clear the wheels at full tuck. Itís hard to explain exactly what this looks like so just check out the pics. I finished it off by covering the exposed fender sheet metal with paint and then some door trim rubber for a cleaner look and also so that I didnít have sharp edges in my wells. Then i painted everything to prevent rust and called it a day. I suspect with will be enough to solve my rubbing issues, but i wonít completely know until i push it to the limit again.. Iíll report back when i do

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