Let's start with the rear (I'm more a rear guy myself

Find some level ground since the old Yank the E-brake and put it on stands method doesn't quite apply when the rear is flying high.
Get the wheels off (I like to have them under the frame in front of the jack stands for measure if the vehicle were to kick the stands out.)
Get your phone and take about 4 good photos for reference later on so you don't have stuff dangling and leftover bolts (you'll still have leftover bolts it's inevitable)
I like to put a jack under the pumpkin of the axle when both rear wheels are off too so that it's not just dangling there and it will also help jacking it up and down to maneuver parts free and putting them back in. Also works great as a pivot point for doing the springs later on.
Now that we are all set to start rippin' her apart lets get down to business.
1. Remove the old shocks. Can't quite remember bolt sizes but I want to say it's a 24mm since most of the rear was a 24mm. If yours are the stock units such as mine were they are beyond garbage and you will be replacing them with heavenly goodness known as Bilisteins.
2. Remove the sway bar end links, and then just do yourself a favor and remove the 4 bolts holding the bushings in and yank that sucker out of there. Seriously you won't be able to tell the difference with this new suspension kit going in. Keep it behind the shed just in case you decide you disagree with me and you can put it back in.
From this point on I'd suggest going side specific, so stay on one side and complete it until you get to the other side. This is for the purpose of winning the leverage battle with the coil springs later on.3. Time to start taking the real PITA bolts off. You got 2 24mm bolts and 1 24mm nut to remove from the trailing arm. These bolts are quite stubborn and I really hope you've been following directions and have been soaking these things since the day you ordered the kit.
4. Now that you got the trailing arm out I hope you were smart enough to buy those yellow siberian bushings when you bought the lift. Because now is prime time to get those put in. Bushing removal and install below.
a. Get a drill and drill out the old rubber. Once you've got as much of the rubber out as possible you are left with the center metal sleeve and an outside metal collar. To remove the outside collar get a punch or chisel, something that you can wedge between the outer metal sleeve and the wall of the trailing arm but something that won't chew up the trailing arm wall at the same time.
b. Once you punch all the way through and get that outer metal collar bent you can very easily press the busing out.
c. Clean it up and grab your yellow bushing, get the lube of your choice. The sibi website calls for a silicone based lubricant.
d. Find the side of the bore that has a tapered edge and this will be the side you press the bushing into. If you haven't used any of those $ in the swear jar, just get ready because they're coming. Line it all up as perfect as you desire, just know these things don't press in like you imagine. They will go all kinds of different ways, but just know if you keep pressing it straight ahead it will eventually correct itself and be darn near perfect. Now the whole arm wanting to move around is another thing to keep in mind also. This is where your buddy will come in hand. Just picture trying to wrestle an anaconda and that's what it feels like trying to keep the trailing arm still while the bushing is bucking around.
e. Repeat a-d for the second bushing
5. Now that the trailing arm is out of the way you have access to the 24mm bolt holding the pan hard bar in place. Go ahead and put the new bar in on this side before you forget and put the trailing arm back up there. This pan hard bar you will receive with the kit is the most crucial piece of the puzzle that competitors are lacking. When you lift the rear the stock bar does not extend and will shift your axle to make up for the lack of travel it possess. Meaning your rear track will forever be off. And nobody like a crooked booty.
6. While everything is all loosey goosey on the side you're working on now is the easiest time to swap the springs. The new springs make the old springs just shutter in fear. They are taller, the coils are thicker, and they weigh a lot more. I rented a basic spring compressor from Advance Auto. It's fairly straightforward but one tip is have the side with the bolt you turn face down (ask me how i know). Also now is when you can utilize your 2nd jack. Go put it under the axle on the opposite side and jack that side up to force the side you are working on down to give you the most room to get the springs in and out.
7. Now that the new spring is in and the pan hard bar is bolted up on that side go grab your fresh bushinged trailing arm and install it. Again the second jack and the jack under the middle pumpkin can help tremendously here with wiggling the trailing arm in a feeding the bolts back through (put the bolt back in the same way you took it out, refer to your pics on your phone if your memory is foggy.)
8. Now is time to install 1/4 of heaven and that is your beautiful bilistein 5100 series baby. Best to get the axle to droop as much as possible just to make it where you won't have to compress the shock as much. I used an assortment of zip ties to compress mine and then just cut them loose when i finished. Put the bolt back through and snug it up. Now on top your going to need your 19mm open ended wrench or a ratcheting wrench if you like the finer things in life and you will need an allen wrench not sure of the size but on the top of the bolt is an allen wrench slot to hold it in place while you tighten the nut down.
9. Repeat steps 3-9 for the opposite side. put the wheels back on, get the jack stands out lower her down onto her own weight. Now step back and admire how much higher it sits... But your not done. Go hop up and down on the bumper real quick to settle things in and go inside and look at the FSM and get the torques for all the bolts. Go back out there torque it all down.
10. Grab your tape measure and get ready to line the rear up with that adjustable pan hard bar. measure from a spot on the inside rim to the frame rail at as close to a horizontal line as you can and do the same for the other side. Loosen the jamb nuts on either side of the sleeve of the pan hard bar. You can now with one hand adjust the track to the left or to the right and you want to make the distance from frame to rim equal on both sides. Take that measurement and make a stick that length so from now on all you got to do is adjust until the stick touches the frame rail and rim and you won't ever have to crawl back and forth measuring both sides again. Once it's all centered up tighten the jamb nuts on the ends of the sleeve.
Simple enough right??
This will leave you sitting somewhere in this department