Author Topic: Tech information about the Gen 2.5 non-amplified speakers  (Read 629 times)

Shovel

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Tech information about the Gen 2.5 non-amplified speakers
« on: July 25, 2017, 12:04:13 AM »
Quick tech info about the 6-speaker, non amplified speakers in LS or base model Gen 2.5 Monteros.

These are pretty simple.   Four full range channels,  the rear loudspeakers are high efficiency, low powered 4 ohm 6x9 wide range speakers,  the front door speakers are  4 ohm 6.5" high efficiency, low powered wide range speakers and the sail panel tweeters are 4 ohm 1" polypropylene balanced radiators wired in parallel with the door speakers,  filtered with a 2.2uF capacitor.



This means your aftermarket head unit should just slide on in and power all of the factory speakers,  and it also means that if you take a little care to do it right your factory head unit would have no difficulty driving the right aftermarket speakers. 



The door woofers have foam edge surrounds that are likely dry rotted to oblivion by now so an upgrade is probably a good idea - but don't just reach for coaxials because those are going to give you more noise (as in ordered harmonic distortion) than you likely want unless  you do a little modification.     If you do buy a set of coaxials for your doors,  and you want to keep using your sail panel tweeters (because they probably still work fine) - simply clip one of the wires going to the tweeter on your new coaxials so that the coax tweeter is simply not playing.   Now when you install them in your doors you get basically the performance the original speakers provided when new, maybe a little extra bass - and DEFINITELY a lot of extra bass if  your old speakers have their edges all dry rotted away.

Another interesting thing, that 2.2uF capacitor on the sail panel tweeters?   That's like a 17khz high pass filter...  that tells us it's a pretty high efficiency, probably a little sloppy, low power (well it says 3w right on it) driver that they wanted to squeeze a little sparkle out of artificially because it probably doesn't actually play 18khz that well on a "flat" signal.    That's all OK,  remember the filter is 6dB per octave so if it's 93dB at 17khz it's 87dB at 8.5khz and 81dB at 4250hz.. meanwhile that light weight paper cone door woofer is still making a lot of noise at 10khz..

If you want a more audiophile solution just replace the door speakers AND sail tweeters with a set of real 6.5" components - but don't forget to run a new wire inside the door to your tweeters because they will have their own component crossover and can't use the same wire already provided for the factory tweeters.    If that part is confusing to you, ask and I'll try to clarify it.     I would expect this to make a massive improvement in sound clarity and intelligibility at any volume.

What about the rear 6x9s?   You can install any 6x9" coaxials you wish back there (as long as they don't have a crazy huge magnet),  remember you have to remove the whole fender trim panel to get at them, the grills don't just pop off from the front they're screwed in from behind.    It's not really that hard to take the trim panel off.   

And those empty lower dash grilles?  Just say no.   Leave those empty unless you really know what you're doing,  stuffing a set of speakers in there without proper signal management is only going to introduce harmonic noise,  reduce intelligibility and drain your wallet.   

« Last Edit: July 25, 2017, 12:07:13 AM by Shovel »