Author Topic: Se7en62's '99 Montero Gen 2.5 Overland Build & Adventures  (Read 8330 times)

Se7en62

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Re: 1999 Pajero NL "ROCKET" - Overland Build
« Reply #15 on: February 18, 2018, 04:38:47 PM »
Very cool....also are you retro fitting a arb bumoer? Or is that really as gen2.5 arb bumper.

It will require some retrofitting. Part # 3434040 is labeled as a 97-00 Pajero, so the outward dimensions are the same. However, the frame mounting brackets are off by 1". I plan to take it to a local fabricator to have the frame horns modified to fit the bumper's mounts.
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1999 Montero "Winter Package" Overland - X3 / ADD / ADHD / ARB / AVN / OME / Bilstein / CVT / DFG / Dometic

Se7en62

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Re: 1999 Pajero NL "ROCKET" - Overland Build
« Reply #16 on: February 25, 2018, 10:14:05 PM »
Another 4x4 enthusiast in a local group offered to help me out with modifying and mounting my ARB Winch Bumper (ARB Part#: 3434040). Now this bumper is the correct shape, but the mounts are a little different as they're designed to work with the 1997-2000 Pajero GLS. From what I've gathered the Pajero GLS has a slightly narrower frame "horns" at the very front of the frame. These "horns" are what the bumper would mount to, but in US-spec Montero's it seems that there are extra brackets that have been welded onto the frame horns by Mitsubishi which widen the horns by about 1/2".

This means the bracket's on the ARB Pajero Winch Bumper (3434040) are the correct width on the outside, but the width between the two inner brackets is too narrow so it has to be widened for the 3434040 to work with a Gen 2.5 Montero.

You can solve this problem in your own way, but what we decided to do was to cut the inner parts of each bracket and widen then with new material. It was fairly simple, but time consuming. It took us 12 hours (including lunch and a run to the hardware store for Grade 8 bolts) to completely finish. I will say that if you are using a Warn winch, then it will take you about 1-2 hours less time, since ARB's are built to use a Warn, though any winch can be used.



























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Sir_Monty

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Re: 1999 Pajero NL "ROCKET" - Overland Build
« Reply #17 on: February 26, 2018, 09:25:55 PM »
Very cool thanks for sharing. Also did you have to order the bumper from a vender over sea. Or was there someone state side that was able to get it for you?

Se7en62

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Re: 1999 Pajero NL "ROCKET" - Overland Build
« Reply #18 on: February 27, 2018, 04:04:49 PM »
Very cool thanks for sharing. Also did you have to order the bumper from a vender over sea. Or was there someone state side that was able to get it for you?

Stateside: 4WP actually carries it.  8)
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Se7en62

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Re: 1999 Pajero NL "ROCKET" - Overland Build
« Reply #19 on: February 27, 2018, 04:08:31 PM »
I was having trouble getting one of the Rugged Ridge manual hubs to engage/disengage. I removed the hub, took it apart, cleaned it with silicone lube and then reassembled with white lithium grease. It's now about 90% easier to turn by hand than before with pliers.

Now, I'm sure the 4WD system and rear air locker work flawlessly. Next job is going to be to replace the fluid in the differentials, transfer case, and transmission and clean the tranny filter.



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TOASTY

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Re: 1999 Pajero NL "ROCKET" - Overland Build
« Reply #20 on: February 28, 2018, 07:21:00 AM »
Well done, looking great dude!

Se7en62

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Re: 1999 Pajero NL "ROCKET" - Overland Build
« Reply #21 on: March 04, 2018, 08:30:07 PM »
Knocked out the transmission drain and fill. I just removed the drain plug and drained 1-gallon of old transmission fluid out, then refilled through the dipstick with 4-quarts of fresh Mitsubishi Diamond SP-III fluid. It shifts smoother now, but in another 10k, I'll drop the pan and clean the filter for good measure.

After that, I wired the ARB's bumper lights up to the factory wiring harness for the foglights, since they aren't being used anymore. Then I rebadged it as a Pajero with some badges I bought online. I think it all came out pretty good. I am on the fence about the spare tire cover though. It may grow on me more...Thoughts?







I still need to wire up the side markers to run in unison with the running lights and turn signals. I'll do that after I find a connector that I can use to make a wiring harness. I think I might have some luck at the Wrench-a-Part if I pull some bumper lights out of an Eclipse.
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Se7en62

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Re: 1999 Pajero NL "ROCKET" - Overland Build
« Reply #22 on: March 09, 2018, 07:30:48 AM »
After several times reading through his thread, I decided I'd follow ImNoSaint's lead on replacing the dim factory reverse lights. I went the exact same route he did in his thread (here) with the Nilight 18W LED Flood lights. Following his guide, it only took me about an hour and half to finish the install. Honestly, the most tedious part was tightening the hardware on the backside, since I have a tow hitch installed that blocks the inner most nuts.

For $19/pair, the result are reverse lights that light up my neighbors house across the street like a spotlight.

These tools, plus the angle grinder or die-grinder are all you need:


MORE DETAIL ON IMNOSAINT'S 2.5 THREAD

My finished product...


Today is also FINALLY PAJERO PLATE DAY! Which means I can get rid of my Montero's horrible (sorry folks) Cali plate and get it fitted with the plates of my native Texas homeland. It finally passed inspection after having to clear the EGR code and unplug the battery for a day to reset everything. The EGR did come back on afterward, so I'll still be diagnosing that soon. Has anyone ever run SeaFoam through the EGR's vacuum lines?
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TOASTY

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Re: 1999 Pajero NL "ROCKET" - Overland Build
« Reply #23 on: March 09, 2018, 08:45:55 PM »
 Sometimes you can just clean the shit out of those EGR's and their passages and it works. Sometimes

Se7en62

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Re: 1999 Pajero NL "ROCKET" - Overland Build
« Reply #24 on: March 12, 2018, 08:46:36 AM »
Sometimes you can just clean the shit out of those EGR's and their passages and it works. Sometimes

I think I'm going to try before I R&R any part of it. I'll go through the vacuum lines one by one, blowing them out with compressed air and marking them with a silver sharpie. Then I'll clean and blow out the solenoid and EGR valve. If that doesn't change it, I'll replace them.
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Se7en62

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Re: 1999 Pajero NL "ROCKET" - Overland Build
« Reply #25 on: March 15, 2018, 01:40:34 PM »
Here's a couple of quick updates: I was able to get my new Texas Tags, which I'm really happy about. The next thing that I wanted to address preemptively was to flush the coolant system with the same solution I used on my Jeep. I just followed the directions on the bottle for a 6-hour deep cleaning.



Not surprisingly, the solution found a leak. After a little advice from the Montero group on FB I just swapped out the line for a new section of 3/8" heater hose. I also ordered an Edelbrock inline fuel filter to install here to help catch any particulates in the cooling system after I finish the flush. I'll make another post once I throw that inline filter on.



After attempting the front brakes twice only to run into barriers (tools, skillset, etc.) I dropped it off at a local shop to let them knock out the Hart front brakes and Timken bearings. I'll update this post with a picture of the new rotor up front behind the wheel, because it looks pretty rad. The shop also threw installed my updated Mitubishi Crank Bolt as well.



After I got it home, I wen ahead and finished replacing the rear brakes as well. That only took me about 20 minutes per side. These pads and rotors are from Hart Brakes. The rotors are their Black Slotted rotor and the pads are carbon-ceramic. The black color on the rotor is an anti-corrosion layer of zinc. These brakes performed really well during my brake-in session and didn't show any noticeable fade until about the 9th round of 60-15mph emergency braking. The brake pad material transferred well to the rotor and I could see the grayish dust collecting in the slots as well.

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Se7en62

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Re: 1999 Pajero NL "ROCKET" - Overland Build
« Reply #26 on: March 16, 2018, 07:48:26 AM »
As she sits today. I still have quite a bit to do in terms of overland prep, but I'm nearing the end of the major maintenance. So far, I've put about 4k on it and really like it.



I am thinking it will get a K&N filter soon and if someone makes a phenolic manifold spacer then I'll do that, but performance wise it's going to remain stock. A swap to 4.90 gearing is likely though, but probably after our return to the CO BDR in July.

Next up will be to drain the brakes and replace with fresh fluid to stiffen up the pedal feel. I'll get to that tonight, as well as replacing the rear diff fluid and removing the tow hitch before we go hit the trails tomorrow.
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ChargerX3

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Re: 1999 Pajero NL "ROCKET" - Overland Build
« Reply #27 on: March 16, 2018, 08:00:00 AM »
She is one good looking rig. Like the color combo and how you outfitted her.

Se7en62

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Re: 1999 Pajero NL "ROCKET" - Overland Build
« Reply #28 on: March 21, 2018, 02:27:39 PM »
She is one good looking rig. Like the color combo and how you outfitted her.

Thanks! I really like the color too. i think I got really lucky as it's hard to be too picky with how rare as these things are.
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Se7en62

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Re: 1999 Pajero NL "ROCKET" - Overland Build
« Reply #29 on: March 21, 2018, 02:30:34 PM »
Last Friday, I replaced the diff and transfer case fluids. The transfer case received Lucas Synthetic 75w90 and the diffs each received Lucas Heavy-Duty 80w90. Both diffs and the transfer case were simple drain-and-fill's.





I also removed the 3rd row seats. These are simple enough to remove and store for later use.



First you just remove the single cover screw (Philips head).



Once you remove the inner cover, there will be (2) 12mm bolts holding the inner bracket.



Next, flip down the 3rd row seats and you'll find a pair of (2) more Philips head screws. Remove them and then remove the outer cover.



Again, there will be (2) more 12mm bolts holding the outer bracket in place. Remove these and the seat will be free.





I also didn't like the way the bolts looked that came with the Luso Overland Pintle Hitch. They are a higher grade, but they developed surface rust very quickly. Rather than painting them, i just replaced them with the bolts that were used for the tow hitch since I was removing that as well. (Which I decided to do after I had tightened this back up. LOL.



The last item I needed to address was improving the departure angle by removing the factory tow hitch. This was straight forward using (4) 17mm bolts on the bottom, as well as the (4) 17mm bolts holding the pintle hitch in place. The last bolt was a little tricky to access, so I pivoted the hitch out to a 45 angle on my floor jack which allowed me to grab the nut that was spinning on top of the frame. After that, I just wheeled it out and stored it for later use. - I will note that the trailer hitch connection, I just moved them up and mounted it to the frame.

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