Used OEM parts? / Reman parts? What to use and when?

[Wheelybuilt]

So I'm finally going to have time to start getting into my repairs and I'm wondering where the best place to source parts for my 2002 Limited would be.

For the front lower passenger side control arm I'm thinking of just buying one pulled off of another vehicle and sold on eBay would work with new bushings? These seem pretty stout and unless they are hit directly like I did they don' look like they'd break/bend/wear. I can still purchase these new but it's about $200.00 more. Just wondering if it would really be needed.

I also have to replace the steering rack which isn't available new any longer. So the options are new aftermarket, one used off eBay or from Pull & Pay or an OEM remaan. For this part, I'm thinking the OEM reman would be the best bet but I've never messed with a steering rack before and honestly not for sure.

Maybe there is a post on this already, but I think for a newb like I am this is a big question. I've been looking at parts for over a week now and honestly, I'm not sure the best route and I'm sure in different situations/budgets/parts the answers can be different.

I'm also trying to decide if I should start putting in the Siberian bushings now or not, that would most likely mean I would need to do the whole front instead of just the ones on one control arm for now so I can get it back on the road and driving so I'll most likely wait on these.

[Crumb]

Get the used OEM part to get you going. If you plan to rebuild the suspension yourself do it all at once or have your alignment done twice (not a big deal but could mean an extra $100).  I can offer no advice on the steering rack, I'd probably attempt to rebuild mine myself if possible.

[haolepinoy]

I like using RC Hill Mitsubishi in Deland, FL for getting my OEM parts. They consistently have the best prices. http://mitsubishipartswarehouse.com/

What happened to your steering rack? I'd definitely get the reman'd unit, if given the choice.

The junkyard LCAs should work fine, especially with new bushings and ball joint.

Regarding the bushings, it will ultimately save you a lot of time to do them all at once (assuming a corner at a time). I did all the rear bushings at one time, and haven't gotten around to the front yet. And like Toasty said, you'll need a new alignment each time you put something new in, so there is coin to consider too. I've got a lifetime alignment plan for my Gen3 with a local Firestone Complete Auto Care. It was $180 (the price of 2 alignments), but I can have it aligned for free everyday from now until Jesus comes back. Something to consider getting, especially with a Gen3, as their rear ends typically need more alignment attention to correct camber.

[Wheelybuilt]

Thanks for the input guys.

@haolepinoy the steering rack has one completely torn boot, the other leaking and it was supposedly bent when I hit a stump that also bent the LCA. 

I think a lifetime alignment plan is the way to go for anyone with a 4x4 that takes it off-road, I used to have it through Montgomery Wards (yea that long ago) on my '74 Bronco and they hated seeing my weekly trip in. I see Firestone offers the same here locally so I'll most likely get that as well when I have it ready for an alignment.

[CharlieN]

Did you actually bend the rack or just the tie rod?
If the rack is bent it will not travel smoothly through full stroke. If it travels then is this just the outer end which swaps out easy enough. The two mounting tabs on the driver side will generally break before the rack bends, but not always.
I just bought a used rack for a project from a salvage yard and other than one "not available in country" hydraulic tube the rack is fine.
The damaged tube looks to have been crushed either by a hammer blow or a tool.

[Wheelybuilt]

Once I finally get it up in the air I'll take a picture, I've had to order new tools/jack, jack stands... etc and still waiting for everything to arrive so it's just setting in the driveway.

I couldn't tell it was damaged/bent/dented from my visual inspection only that both boots were ripped/torn. I drove it home from the garage that looked at it, tires were squealing on ever curve at 20mph and had the tires smelling like they were burning but I don't remember there being any issue with turning the wheel lock to lock.

[CharlieN]

If you have a bent lower arm the truck will drive like poo.
The rack boots are not real bad to change especially if you are either replacing the outer tie rods or need to pull them off the rack during service. As long as the two mounting ears are intact on the left side of the rack it may well have no damage to it.
You do want to verify that the inner tie rods need a firm hand to move them in their inner pivot. If they fall under their own weight I would consider replacing the inners.