Author Topic: Coming soon: 00 Montero rolling project  (Read 6008 times)


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Re: Coming soon: 00 Montero rolling project
« Reply #15 on: June 22, 2018, 07:56:15 AM »
Oh yeah, forgot to ask. Why remove the shocks before getting an alignment? Do the shock block the technician from getting the shims in place?
Shock blocks one of the the bolts needed to loosen the control arm from the frame to gain access to add and remove shims. It's not entirely impossible to remove but in the world of moving cars in and out at a quick pace the tech is likely gonna skip this step because it's easy to get away with. Also they may skimp on camber because it requires them to remove a wheel and put their arms into tight spaces where they can just manipulate the toe aspect with two wrenches in a matter of minutes. People are lazy is what it boils down to. I suggest asking for a print out of the before and after toe camber numbers and watching them as they do it.
1999 Montero. 33x10.5x15 General X3's. 4.90's w/rear locker. Full armor. ADD idler arm. ADD 1.5" complete lift. Siberiean Bushings everywhere. 150W alternator with upgraded 4 AWG leads and grounds. 2nd Battery in the rear for camping stuffs to come.


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Re: Coming soon: 00 Montero rolling project
« Reply #16 on: June 22, 2018, 09:18:22 AM »
That's why I just DIY alignments these days.   Turns out it's not rocket surgery and the surprising part is I wind up getting better alignments than shops had been doing for me all these years.     Probably due to my willingness to go back and dial it in a second time after a test drive.


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Re: Coming soon: 00 Montero rolling project
« Reply #17 on: June 22, 2018, 09:48:58 AM »
Don't need to remove wheel or the shock to get access to add or remove shims.  Or at least not with the kind of wheel gap i have, maybe?  :P

I'll try to remember to get pics of the process today.
1998 Montero Winter Package (For Sale)
1994 FZJ80 Land Cruiser (Wife's)
2006 V8 4Runner Sport Edition (Mine)


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Re: Coming soon: 00 Montero rolling project
« Reply #18 on: June 23, 2018, 06:37:06 PM »
I'd be hard-pressed to imagine anyone's set-up being able to both loosen, then re-tighten the bolts holding the upper control arm to add or subtract shims to adjust camber on a Gen 2/2.5 without removing the shocks. The front bolt head is blocked by most brands of shocks and you can't get either a socket or a wrench on it. And you really need to be able to get those bolts tight after loosening them in the first place.

Here's my take on replacing the front rotors: You have to remove the wheel hub because the rotor is held to the hub with through-bolts with a lock washer and a nut on the backside of each bolt. Since you're going to have the hub in hand, it's a great time to just replace the bearings and races since four sets of Timkens aren't really that much in the grand scheme of things. A bearing and race setting kit from Harbor Freight makes installing the new races easy, too.

But I rarely stop there. Since you're in that far, it's time for new brake pads too, of course, and you might as well replace those decades-old soft brake lines; there are two per side. Use flare-nut wrenches on those.

Why stop there? All you have to do is knock the ball joints loose and remove the knuckle, then you can really replace every-freaking-thing, like the upper and lower ball joints, the upper and lower control arm bushings, all four tie rods, the Pitman arm and the idler arm. Great time for those new shocks you've been wanting. Let's not be forgetting new sway bar bushings and end links, if you run with the bar on (unlike Toasty, but he's half-crazy anyway).

You're so close now, buddy. You did order new CV joint boots, right? Get those shafts off and replace them, I say.

It's just a short move of the floor creeper over to replace your torsion bars, if you feel frisky. Might want to replace the front differential mounts while you're under there. Heck, change out the front differential fluid because you've been blowing that off, haven't you? It'll just leak out when you pull the half shafts, anyway.

Then you only have to take the wheels off once. Just think of all the time you'll save...

John B.
AZ Crew/East Sider/Former 14th St Crew
95 SR, 35x12.5-15 on 8" steelies, 2" BL, stuff cut off, stuff welded on, lights, sound, front ARB pending
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'95 Montero SR. Pretty much stock, Trail Gear Sliders, ADD skid plates, Stereo by Shovel, Timing maintenance by Pa_Jero


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Re: Coming soon: 00 Montero rolling project
« Reply #19 on: June 23, 2018, 07:59:49 PM »
Ball joints have been replaced recently.